Bait tanks for boats
Hey guys looking to make or buy a bait tank for my boat. First how big of a bait tank do i need? My boat is 24 feet and i plan on doing full day to multi day trips and plan to stock up on squid, sardines, or anchovies. Is there a way i can make my own to be professional like, not like a mickey mouse. And whats a good cheap in that i can buy, dont want to spend alot of money making fish swim. Thanks guys.
Thanks DR.Originally Posted by DockRat
HOW TO CARRY LIVE BAIT AND KEEP IT ALIVE
by Ron Ballanti
Fishing boats come in all shapes and sizes, from 15-foot center consoles to 60-foot offshore “battle wagons.” Regardless of which kind of private boat you fish from, there is one common denominator: If you’re really serious about catching fish, you need to be able to carry live bait-and keep it alive.
There’s another important factor to consider: Many new boats-particularly the popular trailerable center console and cuddy-cabin models-don’t come equipped with adequate bait systems, especially for West Coast fishing applications. This leaves many private boaters with need to select an appropriate aftermarket bait system.
There are some differing opinions about which type of bait system is best-short or tall, fiberglass or plastic, etc. However, one this is universally agreed upon: Get as large a tank as your budget and available space will allow. “People think because they only buy one scoop at a time, they don’t need a three-scoop tank,” said Mark Wisch of Pacific Edge Bait Systems. “What they don’t realize is that a three-scoop tank will keep one scoop of bait alive much better. The less crowded, the healthier the baits will remain. If there’s room on the boat, always opt for the larger-size tank.” Larry Wilkin of Kodiak Pro Flow Bait Systems concurs. “I would rather have the ability to carry more bait, and leave a passenger behind,” Wilkin jokes.
According to Wilkin, many of the factors that increase bait mortality-temperature, ammonia build-up, low oxygen, mechanical abrasion-can be reduced by simply not overcrowding the tank. Too many baits in a given space magnify these mortality factors exponentially. For example, adding 10 baits over your safe capacity can end up killing 20 or more baits.
How do you determine maximum capacity for your tank? That’s difficult, because what constitutes a “scoop” of bait varies widely from place to place, as does the type of bait itself. One general rule of thumb says to allow 20 gallons of water for the first scoop, and 10 gallons per half-scoop after that. Skiffs that can accommodate only smaller-sized tanks might be well advised to carry only a half-scoop of bait and put the remainder of the scoop in a bucket for chum.
Two other important factors that govern how a bait tank works are its shape and the rate at which old water is exchanged for new. A tank’s shape will affect how your bait swims. For example, round or oblong tanks with rounded corners tend to keep the bait swimming in a natural circular pattern. Conversely, square or rectangular tanks may cause fish to become bunched up in corners, causing injury.
Shape can also affect how much a tank “sloshes,” which can also increase bait mortality. This effect is magnified in faster, planning-hull fishing boats which tend to “pound” more. In general, tall tanks take up less space and slosh less. Lower profile tanks may slosh more, but they provide more room for baitfish to swim, as healthy baits tend to school in the bottom half of the tank. The “right” shape really depends upon the type of boat, where the tank will be installed, and how it will be used. It’s best to have a professional look at your boat, and to listen to the advice provided.
A good tank will exchange the water quickly (every five to eight minutes in smaller tanks), while creating as little turbulence as possible. According to Wisch, the smaller the tank, the more important this is, as the bait/water volume is higher. There are a variety of ways to achieve this, including “baffled” water inlets, which introduce fresh water across the water column or gently distribute new water above the water line. Wilkin also adds that it’s important for the inside of the tank to be as “clean” as possible, without protrusions, fittings or other things under the waterline to cause injury to the baits.
The location of a bait tank on your boat is also important to its performance. On faster-running, planing boats, the tank should be mounted as far astern as possible. Avoid placing it forward of amidships if at all possible. When space is limited, especially on I/O boats, placing one or two tanks on the swimstep is a good option, and allows you to keep bait separate.
Your best bet when selecting a tank is to visit a bait tank builder/installer, taking the boat along. If you are unable to take your boat with you, dimensions and photos are helpful. If your boat already has a built-in livewell, aerated system or even a “diaper bag,” these systems can be re-plumbed to work more efficiently.
Nice read im looking for something thats tall and wide so i can put behind the driver seat so it wont take up too much room. Is it possible to make something reasonable out of those brute trash cans?
R U Flippin ?
Lol i guess, what about those water tanks? Any other diy type?R U Flippin ?
Look into this company.
http://customlivewells.com/ProductInformation.aspx
The prices seem reasonable and fit what you are looking for.
Thanks those are nice but i still gotta convince my pops to spend a little more $$ on the bsit tank.
Build your own, then you can make it the demensions and size you want. Plywood with a fiberglassed interior and plumbing. Not that hard, we have built a few for our boat, changing the size and shapes around. You need about 25-30 gallons to carry a full scoop of fin bait. And that depends on the size of bait. Also, remember it is best to place your tank in the center of the boat depending on the size.
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