Just getting into Fly Fishing

[zenmic]

That is a hell of a motivational picture, Warriormike. Looks like I have a long journey ahead of me. I am just now getting comfortable with casting the line out, now I figure it is time for me to learn how to actually do something with the fly.

Went back out to Balboa Lake after work, but could not do much. I did not see anything in the water, but did manage to throw a line in the water beside the waterfall for a few minutes.

Question for the folks that know Balboa Park, and Lake Balboa. I thought that the park closes at sundown. Sunset today should be a little after 7PM, but the rangers were telling people to get out by 6:30PM, Is that for parking and locking the gates? Is it legal to park at the driving range and just walk over to the lake?

[smokinflies]

The thing about flyfishing is a lot of people start it, then get frustrated and never pick it back up. You need to make sure you are only taking fly gear when you go fishing. Do not take spinning gear. Learn to fly fish for about a year before you decide if its the right choice for you or not. It does get fun once you get the hang of it

great advice mike.


flyfishing takes devotion.

I used to be devoted to flyfishing until i picked up a bait casting rod.

[Viejo]

If you get the time.... definitely take the Long Beach Casting club's FREE casting course. Starts this April 12th but you can miss the first night if you have to. One night a week for five weeks starting each evening at 7 pm at their casting pond in Long Beach. They teach you all the basic casts and a lot more. They have a ton of folks there to assist your learning and casting on water is as real as it gets. Those five two hour nights will take you from being clueless to putting your fly right where you want it. Then...you can take their free courses on fly fishing rivers and lakes....fly tying...rod building...the whole package.

[ViciousJellyfish]

Just got my hands on a cheapy fly rod. Something to learn on. I plan on attending the casting class. Maybe I'll see some of you there. Been wanting to learn how to fly fish for a long time.

[zenmic]

Viejo, thanks for the advice. I have already taken the classes and practice casting at the Pasadena Casting Club. I am working on applying what I have learned into practice. Orvis here in Pasadena have a couple of one-days coming up soon.

I got to Puddingstone after 5pm on the 7th of April. I made it out to sailboat cove and there were SEVERAL people around the bank fishing. I saw a sailboat, a couple of kayaks and even a float tube or two around. The last time I was out at the sailboat cove, it was the first dock that had the bluegills hiding under. Considering that the opened that dock and that it was where several kayakers were loading and unloading from, I figured they were gone, so I decided to fish the other docks or other parts of the cove.

Since I could only do about two hours before it became way too dark, I figure I would pull out the fly rod and see what I could do. With a few roll cast, I was able to not look like a complete fool and make a fly out to the end up about where I want to. Since I have not gotten to where I can read the water well to figure out the hatch and I did not see fish on the surface, I figured I would use a wet fly.

Now comes my question, what is a good wet fly to use and a good technique? I was using a random bead head nymph from the 10-piece Bead Nymph I from Classic Fly, that I picked up from a local Sports Chalet. I would just toss the fly out and then let it sink for a about 3~5 minutes then try again. I did not use a strike indicator (thing-a-bobber) since I could see the tip of my fly line and it never moved differently from the currents in the water.

Hoping to learn more and to get my first fish on a fly rod soon...

[Viejo]

Any of the bead heads are pretty good. Most of the flies like a Hare's Ear, Zug Bug, Pheasant Tails, damsel or dragonfly nymphs will all catch a Bluegill. Make your cast....let them sink for twenty seconds or so and very, very slow bring them back in. Without the bobber/indicator they have no life to them so you have to provide it with the slow strip in. You are simulating the little larvae and nymphs as they move through the water. Many times you will catch them on the drop. Try tossing out a #10 Woolybugger and strip it back in with slow strips. A small cloueser slowly stripped back will also attract both Bass and Bluegill as they both simulate things that swim through the water. Bluegill will readily eat top water flies and make explosive hits from below that are a blast. Things like mini poppers or mini foam frogs bring the little guys up. They really like small damsel foam fly top water flies. Big strips that make a splash and then pause and hang on.

PM me your mailing address and I'll send you a care package of flies I tie that catch Bluegills

Keep at it. Don't give up and keep up with the casting. It is one of the biggest things you can learn to put the fly where you need it in all conditions. I'm going through the Long Beach Clubs course for a second time this month (I'm slow) to fine tune the basics. My catching improved 50% after attending last Spring and I want to keep the progress going and I've fly fished for eight years. You'll get it.

[zenmic]

Ah...so a bobber/strike indicator is not just that, but something to carry the fly and simulate movement. Now I know. Where should you rig the bobber on the flyline, or on the leader?

Interesting about bluegills and reacting to topwater insects. I have always seen bluegills and under the surface fish; learn something new. I am originally from Mississippi and Tennessee. Growing up there, we typically do not fish as deep as they do here for bluegills, so I thought going deep was the way to go with a fly. Hmmm...more information to absorb.

Thanks for the care package Viejo. Where do you normally fish?

[Viejo]

When I am fishing with an indicator, the depth of the water will indicate how long your leader and tippet have to be. The indicator goes on the leader. In creeks and streams, the rule of thumb is 1 1/2 times the depth of the water. In lakes, if we are on float tubes, we will tie a pair of forceps the the end of the line....plumb the water for depth and put the indicator at that depth or what ever depth we want the bottom fly to sit at. In a lake, if you're snagging the bottom, you're too deep. In streams, you should just feel little ticks as the fly hits the bottom as it travels downstream just a little bit faster then the current. For me, when nymphing, I simply use a butt section from a 4X or 5X leader and and then tie on the appropriate length of 4X tippet for the flies. Most of my nymphs have bead heads or lead substitute for weight but sometimes I will put a split shot between the two flies to get them down....especially in moving water. Like all fishing...if you don't put the fly where the fish eat....it's just a casting exercise.

There is a wealth of information on the internet about using indicators...fishing still waters and fishing for bluegill with the fly rod. Hours of instruction on YouTube. Like anything, the key is to just get out there and try different things. Better still, get out there with someone who has already learned all this and fish with them.

Check your PM's.

[City Dad]

Any big tilapia live in Balboa?

:-D

No. And as grazers, they lack the kind of enthusiasm for feeding on bugs that bluegill and pumpkinseed possess. I know people who tell tales of wacking the tilapia on Adams, poppers, etc., etc., and etc., but those are just tales (now watch the hate rain down 8D)

If I were looking to get into fly fishing right now I'd look for a lake with a good sunfish population.

Just my 2 cents...