The perfect mini-jig rod

[billy b]

... There isn't any

I'm amazed and amused at the wide variety of opinions on what people recommend. Usually we have a pretty good variation but the basic specs needed on other things is pretty consistent and narrow.

FIRST of ALL ... I heard that a Symetre 750 is a great reel ... but it's now discontinued. Would a 500 be too small?

I've heard anything from 7 to 9 foot with all the stops in between. Some say that beyond 8 feet is a waste of time.

I've fished next to a guy hammering them ... and heard people sag "Get a very noodly rod" ... and 'e' type ... not graphite ... "

Then I've heard a "light graphite" (whatever that means) is the thing.

I've heard one guy recommend a Fenwick and then later recommed a Compre

Spinmatic is supposed to be a good deal

I find it very interesting. Unfortunately, I'm in the market for a rod ... and I'm not sure

1. Who would be the best guy to make one
2. Would he know what to recommend?

I'm kinda interested in the Compre but can't find one longer than 7 feet. Maybe the Elixir ... but how about GLooms new rod?

Anybody find all this interesting?

[Ifishtoolittle]

Here's what I usually use for any light jig application:

1) Have long whippy rod say in the 8ft+ length. The reason is that the longer the rod the farther the cast. As far as what rod to get I'd say look into Phenix rods, that company makes some pretty dope trout rods.

2) For reels I think Diawa and Shimano reels are your best bet. The reason there is that the spools are wide, shallow, and relatively long for their size. All these components in a spinning reel provide an angler with the ability to cast farther and to reduce line twist. One more thing on reels I believe that a larger size reel anywhere from the 1000-2500 series fished on 4lb or 2lb will give you super crazy far casts.

All these components in rods and reels should allow you to make that 60-70 yard cast on a 1/32oz mini-jig. Hopefully this helps, but there are others that will argue with my opinion.

-IF2L

[billy b]

So a larger reel will cast farther? ... I have a bunch of 1000 size but would hate to go bigger. My local shop is saying 2# is too small for some of the fish up here. She had a 5# tippet snapped off without even feeling a tug.

I wonder how 4# would do with mini-jigs. I'm so used to 2# that I'm thinking maybe I could get by with 3# fluoro.

GOOD INPUT

[CPT. Kirk]

I have a kencor 7 foot pac rod (3piece) rated 2-8lbs custome built by Kenny at Kenny's Rod & Reel in Upland. I paird it up with a Shimano Stradic 1000 I use it with 2-4lbs test and throw 1/32 oz mini jigs. I have had it for several years with no problems.
I have caught trout, panfish, and bass.
Works great. I'm sure a longer pole will get you more distance.

[bsp]

Hi Mr. Baltz,

To break down the graphite/glass debate, it is mainly personal preference. The old school mini jig rods were made of glass (Kencor Tenlew Magnaglass were/are very popular) and allowed you to impart a different action than with a stiff graphite rod. They are very "noodly" and make a jig dance nicely in the water. My major problem was that I found it a pain to set the hook and they weren't as sensitive as high end graphite. I like fast or ex fast graphite rods since I can react very quickly when I feel a slight tap, and I feel like this allos me to hook fish I would miss on glass. Graphite is also lighter. I can make a jig swim very well with my graphite rods too, so I no longer see the benefit of glass as a material in trout rods. They make killer cranking rods for bass and halibut though!

As for specific rods, the newest Phenix Iron Feather 771 one piece is going to be a sick mini jig rod when it's out in a few months. It has a ridiculously small diameter blank, comes with titanium SiC guides, and is the lightest rod at that length you will find (production wise). It fishes 2lb like a dream, and 3lb isn't any different. I like 2lb it to get the best action for a 1/32oz jig, and 3lb for a 1/16oz. A Mirage 781 would also be a good choice and it's not nearly as much (not as sensitive or light though).

If you want longer in the Iron Feather, you'd have to bump up to the 862-2. Also a very fun rod, but my experience isn't as extensive with that model. It might be better suited to 5lb line though since it's one step up in power.

A 1000 size reel is traditionally what you want for 2lb or 3lb since it has a larger diameter spool (farther casts), while still being small and light. Shimano Saros' are great, but the new Stradic Ci4 looks insane. There are some guys that get even better distance by filling up a 2500 reel with backing (either braid or mono), and then topshotting the fluoro leader. This results in a heavier combo over all though, so it's a trade off. Most of the time you can get the distance you need without it, but it can be nice to have.

An Elixir 862 or 902 is like a 4 weight fly blank (if you don't like the Iron Feather price tag), so if you paired it up with a magnesium or Ci4 2500 reel, you could still get a lightweight mini jig set up that's better suited to 4lb or 5lb fluoro (Bawo Finesse from Toray is great. I've used it on corbina and trout for the past two seasons with no issues). This would make a nice heavier float and fly rod as well.

Hope this aids your decision making process a bit and let me know if I can help,

Marc

[Ifishtoolittle]

Hi Mr. Baltz,

To break down the graphite/glass debate, it is mainly personal preference. The old school mini jig rods were made of glass (Kencor Tenlew Magnaglass were/are very popular) and allowed you to impart a different action than with a stiff graphite rod. They are very "noodly" and make a jig dance nicely in the water. My major problem was that I found it a pain to set the hook and they weren't as sensitive as high end graphite. I like fast or ex fast graphite rods since I can react very quickly when I feel a slight tap, and I feel like this allos me to hook fish I would miss on glass. Graphite is also lighter. I can make a jig swim very well with my graphite rods too, so I no longer see the benefit of glass as a material in trout rods. They make killer cranking rods for bass and halibut though!

As for specific rods, the newest Phenix Iron Feather 771 one piece is going to be a sick mini jig rod when it's out in a few months. It has a ridiculously small diameter blank, comes with titanium SiC guides, and is the lightest rod at that length you will find (production wise). It fishes 2lb like a dream, and 3lb isn't any different. I like 2lb it to get the best action for a 1/32oz jig, and 3lb for a 1/16oz. A Mirage 781 would also be a good choice and it's not nearly as much (not as sensitive or light though).

If you want longer in the Iron Feather, you'd have to bump up to the 862-2. Also a very fun rod, but my experience isn't as extensive with that model. It might be better suited to 5lb line though since it's one step up in power.

A 1000 size reel is traditionally what you want for 2lb or 3lb since it has a larger diameter spool (farther casts), while still being small and light. Shimano Saros' are great, but the new Stradic Ci4 looks insane. There are some guys that get even better distance by filling up a 2500 reel with backing (either braid or mono), and then topshotting the fluoro leader. This results in a heavier combo over all though, so it's a trade off. Most of the time you can get the distance you need without it, but it can be nice to have.

An Elixir 862 or 902 is like a 4 weight fly blank (if you don't like the Iron Feather price tag), so if you paired it up with a magnesium or Ci4 2500 reel, you could still get a lightweight mini jig set up that's better suited to 4lb or 5lb fluoro (Bawo Finesse from Toray is great. I've used it on corbina and trout for the past two seasons with no issues). This would make a nice heavier float and fly rod as well.

Hope this aids your decision making process a bit and let me know if I can help,

Marc

Ah yes the Iron Feather, that is one sick rod!

[sawoobley]

So a larger reel will cast farther? ... I have a bunch of 1000 size but would hate to go bigger. My local shop is saying 2# is too small for some of the fish up here. She had a 5# tippet snapped off without even feeling a tug.

I wonder how 4# would do with mini-jigs. I'm so used to 2# that I'm thinking maybe I could get by with 3# fluoro.

GOOD INPUT

With a spinning reel you want one that is longer, wider and shallower so that there is more line per revolution on the reel. The main thing the shortens your distance is the friction of the line as it comes off the reel and rubs on the lip of the reel. The longer it takes for the lip to become more exposed the farther the cast will be. Another thing that will help is to use thinner line (braid perhaps) so it will also take more line to expose the friction increasing lip. What you do not want is a short deep reel. These shorter reels also have a steeper angle on the line as it comes off the reel and rubs against the lip of the reel.

Check out this reel below. Notice the shallowness of the reel. Notice the starting width of the spool of the reel. Notice the shallow lip on the reel. It's a beauty, but this particular one is too expensive.



I also think that longer rods tend to give better distance as long as it is rated to your lure weight and it loads well on the cast. Technique of course will also help. Finally the aerodynamics of the lure you are using will make a big difference. Try casting a plain weight compared to a jig and you will see a difference.

Here are some distance casting spinning reels. The Emblem is one of the best ones available and I think the SS has some good smaller reels.

- Daiwa Tournament SS Spinning Reel
- Shimano Sustain® FE Spinning Reel
- Daiwa Emcast Plus
* Daiwa Emblem Pro Spinning Reels

[CPT. Kirk]

With a spinning reel you want one that is longer, wider and shallower so that there is more line per revolution on the reel. The main thing the shortens your distance is the friction of the line as it comes off the reel and rubs on the lip of the reel. The longer it takes for the lip to become more exposed the farther the cast will be. Another thing that will help is to use thinner line (braid perhaps) so it will also take more line to expose the friction increasing lip. What you do not want is a short deep reel. These shorter reels also have a steeper angle on the line as it comes off the reel and rubs against the lip of the reel.

Check out this reel below. Notice the shallowness of the reel. Notice the starting width of the spool of the reel. Notice the shallow lip on the reel. It's a beauty, but this particular one is too expensive.



I also think that longer rods tend to give better distance as long as it is rated to your lure weight and it loads well on the cast. Technique of course will also help. Finally the aerodynamics of the lure you are using will make a big difference. Try casting a plain weight compared to a jig and you will see a difference.

Here are some distance casting spinning reels. The Emblem is one of the best ones available and I think the SS has some good smaller reels.

- Daiwa Tournament SS Spinning Reel
- Shimano Sustain® FE Spinning Reel
- Daiwa Emcast Plus
* Daiwa Emblem Pro Spinning Reels

Daiwa SS has been a favorite for years.

[littletroutchaser]

gloomis imx 7 foot...2-6 pound rod...and stradic 1000

[calico killer kevin]

Phenix FX761 Custom
Fuji TATSG transition to micros
Split Tennessee Carbon Fiber Grip

Any quality 1000 size reel.

Mini-jig fishing is primarily rod.