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Thread: Setting up for local tuna and yellowtail

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Default Setting up for local tuna and yellowtail

    The time is almost here. Tuna season is starting to come into range, and the local yellowtail have been biting for a few months now. This year the second half of a strong two year El Niño cycle, and the warm water is moving north, or “heading up the line”, as we say. Reports are coming in of bluefin and albies 150 miles out of SD, and this weekend could be the opener for our tuna season in SoCal. Here’s a general guide I’ve put together for rigging up to bait fishing local tuna and ‘tails. I obviously haven’t covered everything, so feel free to chime in!

    Rod ‘n Reel:

    The first thing for fishing local tuna (within 3 day range) and local yellowtail is the correct gear for the current job. Have a basic system for fishing different conditions. I prefer 8’ rods, or at least 7’. In general, short sticks are great for vertical presentations but harder to get a long cast like you can with a longer rod. There is a rod rating system developed for California ocean fishing by the local manufacturers in the early days of West Coast fishing. Here it is:

    • 196: 12-15lb line
    • 270, 270H: 15-20lb line
    • 870, 665, 6465: 25-30lb line
    • 670, 665H, 6465H: 40lb line

    I don’t bother with a trolling setup for the basics, because the boat has troller rods to use. As you get more experienced, you may want to get a good troller setup but many people just use the boat rigs. That’s why they are provided to start with. Here are my suggestions:

    1. 30lb setup:
    The most commonly used setup for tuna and yellows in SoCal. Many experienced tuna fisherman grab for their 30lb gear first on a tuna bite. It’s a good blend of power and finesse. You can throw a squid, sardine, or larger anchovy fairly well on 30lb with some skill. You have the drag range to deal with good sized fish, yet the line is small enough to not spook moderately pressured fish.
    Something in the 6’6”-8’ range with a soft tip makes a good 30lb stick. Seeker and Calstar both make great sticks. Glass rods in the 870 designation make fine 30lb sticks, and if you are looking at Calstar Grafighters, the models of choice are the 800M or 700M. In the Seeker Black Steel and Super Seeker series, the series generally follow the standard West Coast designations.
    Reel wise, a basic Penn 500 Jigmaster is a good, cheap 30lb setup but for a more experienced fisherman is leave something to be desired. For more, you can get the Penn GS 535, Daiwa Sealine 30SLX, or Shimano TLD Star 15/30, all of which are strong, solid performers with good casting. Newell makes some of the best casting reels on the market, and a Newell 332 is an excellent 30lb platform. For a little more, you can get a Daiwa Saltist 30/30T or Shimano Torium 16 or 20, excellent reels with great construction and great drags. More money will get you increasingly better performance. If you want a lever drag, Avet and Accurate both make excellent reels.

    2. 20lb setup:
    The second most commonly used outfit is a setup for 20lb. When the bite is tough, 20lb is a good bet. Many times, local yellowtail will only eat the 20. It has the ability to throw small baits and let them swim much easier, or throw larger sardines or squid farther to spookier fish.
    7’-8’ is ideal, longer if you like. For glass rods, the 270 designation denotes 20lb. For Calstar Grafighters, 700L/700XL or 800L/800XL are fine 20lb sticks. Seeker Black Steel and Super Seekers follow the standard number system.
    Daiwa makes a great 20lb reel in the Daiwa Sealine SLX 20 series. Newell 220 and 229s are excellent choices also, as is the Penn 525/525 Mag. The Daiwa Saltist 20 is a great 20lb reel and Shimano makes a fine reel in their Torium 14 or 16N. For Avet, the SX is a good choice. Accurate has similar sized models in their lineup.

    3. 40lb setup:
    This is one portion of the quiver many SoCal guys forget to add. 40lb is necessary for local yellowtail fishing. It gives you a much better shot at homeguard yellows at the local island when fishing dropper loops. It is also versatile, allowing you to fish yoyo iron also and it can be used for the larger version of local tuna when they show up. During a wide open bite, using the 40 can be the difference between catching 2-3 fish per bite and 5-6 or more per bite.
    6’-8’ are all good. Longer rods put more strain on the angler, so if you have issues with strength or endurance a shorter rod may be best for you to fish 40lb. 7’ is good compromise of casting and fish fighting qualities. If you are fishing yoyo iron and dropper loop, a 6’-6’6” will work just fine. For glass rods, this is a 670, 665H, or 6465 designation rod. For Calstar Grafighters, this is would be a 700MH/700H, or 800M/800H series rod.
    There are a lot of 40lb options out there. The Penn 113 “4/0” is the old West Coast standard, but its heavier than current reels and a bit slow gear ratio wise. But for $200, you can get the Penn Baja Special, an incredibly strong 40lb reel with solid drags. The Daiwa Sealine SLX 40 and Penn 545 GS are good, but a little underpowered for the bigger specimens of yellowtail and tuna. The Shimano TLD Star 20/40 lacks nothing in power and has good drags. For the Daiwa Saltist, the 40 or 30T can both fish 40, depends on your preference. Shimano makes a good 40lb reel in their Torium 30. I feel this is where lever drag really come into their own. An Avet HX or JX both fish 40lb well, as does an Accurate BX 400/400N.

    4. 15lb setup:
    Sometimes, the fish don’t want 20 and it’s a really spotty bite. 15lb can be the key. 15 can fish small baits very well and cast them far. Obviously, you don’t have the stopping power of high line tests, which can be an issue with bigger, hotter fish.
    Your basic inshore stick for bass does well here. There are a plethora of options, more than I can cover. For glass rods, a 196 rating is about rate. For the Calstar Grafighters, a 700Xl or 800Xl is a great 15lb stick. Lots of guys use their local bass sticks without issue.
    Lots of options again. The Daiwa Sealine SLX 20 is great for straight 15lb mono, as is the Penn 525/525 Mag. The Shimano Torium 14 or Daiwa Saltist 20 again. The Shimano Curado 300 series, Shimano Calcutta CT400/400S, Daiwa Luna 250/300, and Abu Garcia Revo Toro 50. Many guys fish these reels as their 20lb outfits also, as they are very versatile reels.

    Terminal Tackle:
    Match your hook to the bait. Smaller hooks for smaller sardines and anchovies, larger hooks for bigger sardines, macks, and squid. A good local selection covers sizes from 4-4/0. Circle hooks are optional, but they can certainly help with hooking tuna. Ringed hooks are optional too. They do provide an extra pivot point for the hook to move freely about, and I feel this helps weaker bait swim a little better. To each his own….Mustad, Owner, and Gamakatsu all make excellent hooks. I personally buy two types:
    • Ringed “designer” Owner and Gamakatsu hooks for decent bites, and picky bites, in all listed sizes
    • Standard J-hooks for wide open bites. I like the Mustad 94150. They are cheap and will rust out quickly, which I like for releasing fish when going after tuna. Cut the line as close as possible and you don’t have to stop fishing after your limit is up. I buy these in 1/0-3/0, as those sizes are most common for fishing ‘dine on a wide open bite.
    Flourocarbon leader has become a proven necessity over the last few years. You may not need it all days, but when the bite is tough, it’s the king maker. I buy 25 yard spools in 20-40lb. Also, say the fish want 25lb. You can run a short leader or 25lb flouro on your 30lb rig, which makes you more versatile as a fisherman. There are several companies making excellent flouro, I prefer Seaguar because its easy to find locally.
    Line wise, you have two options: straight mono or Spectra with a leader or topshot. I fish the topshot option. Straight mono has its benefits and places, but today’s gear is made to fish Spectra. It allows you to fish smaller gear for bigger fish, and thus allows to fish longer with less fatigue, as the result of smaller reels and lighter rods is reduced total weight. Investment wise, its cheaper too. The initial cost is difficult to swallow, but with proper care Spectra should last for at least 5 years. The longest reported is about 8-10, but it hasn’t been around long enough to test further. The standard topshot of mono over Spectra is 100 yards. Changing out 100 yards frequently is relatively cheaper compared to changing out a whole spool of mono. Many guys now fish a short (~3-15’) topshot or leader of mono or flouro. Be warned, however, that a short topshot or leader of flouro has less stretch, which means you can pull hooks on lightly hooked fish if you like to pull hard. Izorline, JB, and several other manufacturers makes great Spectra. There is also braid, such as Powerpro. However, you have to change braid out more often, a tradeoff for its lower price, and many braids have a waxy coating, so they lose their color quickly and can become weak if you don’t take care of them and retie occasionally.
    For weights, you don’t need much. I like a selection of egg sinkers from ¼- ¾ oz, and some rubbercores from 1-2oz when the surface bite is a bit deeper on local tuna. For dropper looping yellows at the local irons, a good selection of torpedo weights from 4-10 oz is useful. In deep, fast water like Colonet in Mexico during the “freezer trips” of winter time, you might need 12-16oz to fish homeguard yellows on a dropper loop.

    Fishing tips:
    • Get comfortable with your gear. Grab a couple wooden clothes pins and get your casting down. On a tough bite, the guy casting the farthest gets the most fish more often than not. Lawns, parks, and better yet, ponds and lakes are great for practice
    • Quality live bait is the best weapon in your arsenal. Don’t pick sluggish bait. You want “green” bait, particular specimens that are healthy, strong swimmers. We call these “cured” baits.
    • Match your hook size. If you have big, lively sardines, a 2/0 is the smallest suggested size, preferably a 3/0. Conversely, if the bait goes belly up on the way out and the remaining portion of it is weak, you may need to use a smaller 1 or 2 hook. For anchovies, start with a 1 and go down if needed. I often fish ‘chovies with a #4 ringed Gammie. For squid, 2/0-4/0 is the choice, and fishing macks on a dropper loops for yellows means a 4/0 usually.
    • Follow your bait. There are lots of lines in the water on local tuna and ‘tail trips. Follow your bait and keep your line straight. If you bait persists in swimming under the boat, snap it off and rebait.
    • Let the fish take line before setting. Usually, a tuna or yellow does not hit lightly. They take the bait and keep moving, meaning your spool will start to move faster than it would with the bait. Sometimes the fish comes right at you, and you feel nothing. Hooksets are free, set when in doubt. The best method for a set is to reel down till you feel the weight of the fish. That sets the hook. Freshwater bass swings are fun to watch and participate in, but not needed here. Get’em tight and hold on.
    • Set your drags correctly. A good standard is 25-30% of line weight. I like about 25%, as the rod adds a little to your rating. Too light a drag wont stop the fish, and too heavy can bust a fish off or pull a hook. Also, make sure to maintain your reels and replace drags at least annually, more if you need to.
    When you hook up, follow your fish. No angles, no tangles. Keep’em straight down or out. Failure to keep up with your fish is the main reason behind saw offs on party boats. Avoid the stern clusters, and follow your fish. And remember, the angler with a fish on has the right away. But, if you are that angler, don’t be rude to anglers in your way. Ask politely, and you’ll find most people will be fine with moving for your fish.
    • Fish into the wind. Fishing on the side of the boat where the drift is heading towards is a recipe for failure. Throw into the wind and let the bait drift with the boat, not under it.
    • The proper way to signal a gaff is to yell “Color!” when you see the first signs of color below the boat. You usually have several more runs to deal with, and this gives the deckhands time to prepare for you. If they can’t get to you right away, chillax my friend. Keep your fighting your fish and wait for them to help you.
    • Fish the gray light. The time between night and day, the “gray light” can be very productive. You may not hook into anything for your efforts, but you can also be the first person hooked up and fishing your own bite, when the majority of passengers are still asleep.
    • When the trollers go off and you stop on what we call a “jig strike”, you can fish “the slide”, the period where the boat is gliding forward out of gear. Wait till the trollers are in or mostly in, and then throw. This is easier with plastics or iron, but a bait hooked near the anal fin can be very productive on the slide (“butt hooked” bait swims down, towards the tuna moving up towards the bait being brailed out by the deckhands).
    • The more days you are out, the better chance of finding the fish. On a spotty local bite, the longer you are out, the better chance you having of getting your money’s worth.
    • Don’t forget extra socks, shirts, and underwear. Jeans, a rain jacket, and sweatshirt or hoodie are good in case you hit fog or rain. Don’t forget your sunscreen, and remember a hat and polarized sunglasses. I like to wear a big straw hat on hot, sunny days. I may look funky, but the fish don’t care and skin cancer ain’t worth it, I can vouch for that.

  2. #2

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    Nice write-up Dockboy, alot of great info right here and I, for one, appreciate good spelling and punctuation. Makes it all worth reading!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Great info man!! ThAnks for taking the time to type that up!

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    That's was a GREAT educational tutorial for newbees Dockboy!
    Very well organized ,concise and easy to follow.
    How much time have you spent on a boat? It sounds like either your a skipper or X, deckhand or x-hand (like me) or your a very obsevant fishing nut/fanatic that fishes/lives on the water over 260 days or more a year.
    Glad you mentioned the most common fault "no angles, no tangles" in your thread. This used to "DRIVE ME(and the other deckhands) CRAZY" when in the middle of a "HOT BITE". I think almost as many fish are lost to this mistake as are bad knots and old/frayed line (which should be another thread)!
    Your should do a thread (if you have time) about etiquette and how to annouce jig tossing (another one of my pet peeves ). I'd trust your writing as opposed to mine. Again, this was a well written tutorial. KUDOS
    LW.

  5. #5

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    You're the man. Great read if you don't have too much experience out there. You pretty much covered all the fundamentals that anyone would need to know to be productive. Nice job!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    thanks friends

    Im not a former deckhand or long time salt guy either. I didnt really get into our local salt scene till a few years ago on my first tuna trip. Until last year I lived 100 miles from the ocean, and on a good day Lone Pine is closer than SD from my home in SoCal. But I have been fishing since I was a kid, got full blown into freshwater bass and notched a few wins in small tournies at a local lake before I came up to UCSC. But, I worked under the guidance of a long time friends and my gear is largely donor gear from a good friend who quit saltwater due to health issues. I just hoped to pass along the info I've learned on my trips with a lot of good fisherman.

    I hope you guys enjoyed it. There have been a good deal of questions around for the yt/tuna recently, so I figured why not

  7. #7

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    Now a days, trips are getting more expensive and you have to maximize each possible bite. Great tips!

    I'd definitely have to agree with liteweight. Make sure you have a good bite on your knot. Retie after every fish, even if it still looks good! Most of the better boats I've been on, snip your hook off after a gaffed fish and hands it back to you to retie.

    Also, I've been using circle hooks exclusively for the last few years. I don't doubt my hooksetting ability with J hooks, it's just circles always end up in the corner of the mouth. Wait for the bite, give it a 2-3 count and put it into gear. The circle hook does the rest. There's definitely an advantage when fishing Dorado which show up on trips like this, which are notorious for spitting hooks on their flashy jumps!

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Excellent write up dockboy!!!

  9. #9

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    as i was looking for yellowtail setups, i came up on this, AWESOME, just what i was looking for, perfect starter information!!! thanks dockboy, you have it down!!!

    Tony G

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Nice write up. Very informative. Getting ready to buy my first Yellowtail setup and this helped a lot!

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