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Thread: Flourocarbon

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Hemet, Ca
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    Default Flourocarbon

    I know, I know, there have been a lot of discussions and topics on Floro, but here is mine. So, Floro is a smaller diameter line, and has the closest refraction to water as possible, so far. It is my understanding that Floro is less abrasion resistant than mono, but is better in certain situations, and techniques such as finesse fishing, and some even say for crankbaits since Floro sinks and can get the lure deeper. I am looking into using Floro as a leader material only to start, and go from there. Looking for opinions on use as a leader material, Using a swivel, or direct line tie (what knot), or if you are spooling up with it. If you are spooling up, are you using a heavier line since it has a smaller diameter, and is equivelant to a lighter Mono line. I have been using Mono for years, and will still continue to use Mono for topwater, so in that area, Floro is not an option for me. Just looking for some input.

    Practice C&R, keep em swimming.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    long beach cali
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    1,286

    Default

    i use 8lb flor on my reels,im not to impressed with it.it twists up on me,on my other rod i use 12lb big game and no twist what so ever.im switching the floro to big game.imho

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    taco stand in San Quintin
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    Default

    Topwaterbassin,

    I believe most people will generally agree that fluoro is MORE abrasion resistant than mono, not less.

  4. #4
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    Aug 2007
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    GeordyLand,Sun Valley
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    Default

    I usually half and half my reels, mono then fluoro, or braid then fluoro. Fluoro to me is stiffer but more sensitive than mono. It also has less stretch and sinks faster too. Depending on what line you get, abrasion resistance varies. I use SeaGuar a lot and TripleFish too.... Both are great lines. Only line I'd advice you to stay away from is cheaper fluoro like Seaguar Red Label, Vicious, and some berkeley lines.... Blackwater is the best IMO, but wayyyy to expensive for me!

    My fav mono/co polymer is Cuda and sometimes fluoroclear. Big Game works too....

    good luck!

  5. #5
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    May 2009
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sansou View Post
    Topwaterbassin,

    I believe most people will generally agree that fluoro is MORE abrasion resistant than mono, not less.
    sansou,
    I have heard that a lot, but, I have done my own testing with Mono and Floro, and it seems to me that the Floro line gets damaged easier than the Mono. I did this test with 6# Trilene XL Mono, and 6# Seagur Floro, the Floro snapped much easier after applying tension. Just my experience.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Monrovia, California
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    Default

    Flo. is more abrasion resistant than mono. Blackwater is the best IMO with Seaguar 2nd, the refractive index is insane and it's damn strong. You can use a swivel. I'd use Spro swivels but that's for line twist issues. For braid tied to Flo. I'd use a Uni to Uni Connection or a Seaguar connection. But yeah of course the Flo. will get your bait down quicker and it will fall to the bottom more straight as opposed to angle w/ mono. Off topic but for salt Use ACTUAL leader material for shock(yellows/albs)

  7. #7
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    Feb 2010
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    Downey
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    Default

    I tie a jam knot or Palomar knot better then using a swivel (my opinion)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by marc626 View Post
    Flo. is more abrasion resistant than mono. Blackwater is the best IMO with Seaguar 2nd, the refractive index is insane and it's damn strong. You can use a swivel. I'd use Spro swivels but that's for line twist issues. For braid tied to Flo. I'd use a Uni to Uni Connection or a Seaguar connection. But yeah of course the Flo. will get your bait down quicker and it will fall to the bottom more straight as opposed to angle w/ mono. Off topic but for salt Use ACTUAL leader material for shock(yellows/albs)
    uni to uni and blood knots work well for braid to any line,,, and thats right on with the bait sinking faster and going straight down. Mono Bows with the current usually.

  9. #9
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    Sep 2009
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    Default

    I would just go with mono to a swivel, since you don't need to learn any new knots to join your main line to the leader. I would use heavier mono and then lighter fluoro, that way when you break it off, you will only beak off the fluoro part and keep your swivel and everything above, for example, a weight. I suggest just using fluoro for the whole thing instead of just as a leader, because of the low stretch and it would just be easier if you didn't have to tie on a leader every time. Go with good fluoro like Seaguar InvisX and you won't have any problems with it. I always seems to get some line twist and too much memory from the cheap fluoro, but it would probably be decent as a leader. Also, you could go with some good copoly like P-Line Fluoroclear and use that as your main line since I like it better than any mono and it is cheaper than fluoro.

    Quote Originally Posted by sansou View Post
    Topwaterbassin,

    I believe most people will generally agree that fluoro is MORE abrasion resistant than mono, not less.
    I would agree that it is more abrasion resistant.

  10. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TopwaterBassin View Post
    sansou,
    I have heard that a lot, but, I have done my own testing with Mono and Floro, and it seems to me that the Floro line gets damaged easier than the Mono. I did this test with 6# Trilene XL Mono, and 6# Seagur Floro, the Floro snapped much easier after applying tension. Just my experience.
    Fair enough. I can't say I play around with 6# fluoro all that much. However, from a salt fishing perspective, at the 15# and up, it's this farmer's opinion that fluoro is pretty good around rocks, sharp teeth and structure that would otherwise compromise mono.

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