braid newb

[tacklejunkie]

few questions..
How do I tie braid to my reel?

I will be using a Luna 253 for jigs, c-rigs, frogs and chatters (for now, yes I know it's a bit heavy but not in the mood for trout plugs so it's just sitting here) and want to try/was recommended to try/ read about trying some braid in several of these instances. Do I just tie the braid right to the line eye/swivel on these baits? What knot do I use?

Lastly, any recommendations as far as line brand, type and rating? How long does it last? How do I know when to change it?

Do I need some backing under it? Topshot for these applications?

Thanks for any help you guys can point me to.

[bsp]

I can help you out a bit TJ.

1: You can either wrap a strip of athletic tape on the spool or put on like 5 or 10yds of mono first so the braid has something to grasp onto. Otherwise you risk the chance of it slipping.

2: Tie straight for all of them and use the Palomar as BK said.

3: 50lb or 65lb in either Sufix, Izor, Power Pro, Daiwa ($$), or Toray ($$$$$). Power Pro, Sufix, and Izor are the ones I have used and they all work well. I like Sufix the best, then Izor, and finally Power Pro. One backlash and Power Pro is done. I haven't heard any complaints about the last two except price, so if you have the cash you might want to check them out. Sunline has braid as well, but I have never heard anything about them.

Braid should last you a year of heavy use. Theoretically it will last a life time, but you'll eventually need to re spool as it does get nicked and beat up a lot when you are fishing heavy cover. Change it once it starts becoming too unmanageable to cast (backlashes) or once it gets insanely beat up. Generally you can cut off like 10ft of it and you will be good to go again. Some guys change it when as soon as it gets faded, but that isn't always necessary. That's just the dye coming off, and doesn't directly affect performance. It does signal that your line is old, so it is good time to check if you need respooling.

If you fish saltwater, be sure to rinse the braid after every trip so salt doesn't accumulate.

No need for a topshot. Just go with straight braid since you are going for a reaction strike in all the applications but the C-rig, and then you already have a leader. I am assuming that you are flipping the jig if you are using braid. If not, just go with fluorocarbon. It's abrasion resistant and braid doesn't offer that much more sensitivity than fluoro if you are using high end gear (and you are).

I agree with BK on the Fireline Crystal. Stay FAR away from that stuff. There are much better lines out there, and it's selling point fails. That stuff is far from invisible underwater, and for the price you can afford other, better braids.

[Skyler]

I wouldn't neccesarily recommend fireline crystal (The UV rays seem to get to it pretty quick). though it is very easy to see on the water, and it floats (topwater anyone?), it doesn't handle the same as the smoke-colored fireline, at least for spinning applications. Bear in mind the line will take a month of heavy fishing to break in, and you will have to wet your spool before the first cast, but once it's wet and broken in, it is SOOO slick. I've had my spool for the last 6 months, and it gets better every time I use it. My spool of crystal is still kicking, but it seems far more "dental flossy."

As for tying it to your spool, use a short section of thick mono and tie it uni-to-uni to the braid. then arbor knot or uni knot it to your spool, and reel it up. As for the topshot, i like to use a flouro topshot for most finesse applications, and for fishing jerkbaits. Uni-to-uni is the best way to splice braid to mono/flouro. If you are ripping frogs or jigs through the weeds and texas rigging large plastics, you can just tie off to the braid (good for ripping up snags). Again, the Uni knot seems to work the best. I use three passes instead of two when connecting terminal tackle, and have never had one break.

[That Dang Guy]

To be totally honest, I've never experienced spool slippage without tape. You just have to make sure the first few wraps are on ridicliously tight. Almost tight enough to break your line. When spectra first came out people there were rumors about having to spool spectra on wet, but that simply isn't true. BUT, the tape is a bit of extra insurance and won't hinder any performance.

In most of our bass applications, you won't need any backing at all. For my topwater swimbaits, i throw it on 65 power pro. I'm not quite happy with it. The results are okay, but the wax makes the line lay a bit akward. The wax does definitely help with abrasion resistance though.

I used to tie all kinds of knots for braid to topshot. The PR knot was one of my favorites for higher test line (>50lbs). I wasn't happy with the bimini-reverse albright knot that has been pushed for the last few years. The uni-to-uni was one of the slimmer knots, but still had issues passing through guides. I also experienced some slippage with a 6-8turn uni-to-uni. I'm confident that the spectra side slipped. Any more turns than 8 on the spectra side, I had issues with the knot cinching down properly.

I experimented with loop to loop stuff for my offshore applications and was quite happy with it. It was one of the smoothest, if not the smoothest transitions. So it was only natural I would play with it in the fresh. I recently made a loop to loop connection with 25lb yozuri to 60 hollow jerry brown for fishing my lunker punker. I'm pretty happy with it. If anything, i might go straight from a solid spectra splice into the hollow for a smoother transition. If anything could possibly happen i could revert back to L2L or uni on the water. Don't serve your knot or go with half hitches. Use a 8 turn nail knot tightened with dowels. It's freaking invincible after that. It's also slimmer. But this might be a bit heavy for your applications.


BTW. Although the only spectra I have used on a spinning reels was firelines, I hate spectra on spinning reels. I have a tendency to fish my baits with slack or loose line. This inevitably leads to wind knots and they are a pain to get rid of.

I've mainly used spectra in the 65lb range. My Trinidad 16 was filled over 2 years ago and it's still going strong. It's probably down to 2/3 capacity since the PR knot and bimini-albright tends to eat alot of line every time you tie it. I might consider changing it next year. I haven't washed it since it's been on there. I'm interested too see if there is any corrosion below. I'll let you know.

To answer your other question, a short top doesn't hurt as long as your confident with your knot.

That is all my experience with spectra. I don't have any experience in the stuff much lighter than 30lbs...minus the short foray i had with Fireline crystal.

[tacklejunkie]

Hmm.
If it lasts that long, might be worth it to buy some of the nicer stuff?
All the Daiwa braid on TW is sold out. Wonder if that's manageable line or not.
I guess that would be my main worry? Wouldn't want to put a full spool on, backlash and ruin it. I'm not against a "learning spool" of less expensive braid to start with.

Thanks for the input guys.

[PUDD MASTER BAITER]

Casey ,i use a mono leader ,and tie it with a double surgens knot, use about 4ft to 6ft, then tie the mono, to your reel to prevent slippage.i also always use mono for my leaders and use the same knot so i dont have to use a swivle. By the way bk.ive had the same crystal fire line, for over 3 years.i use the 20lb. Rated 8lb dia. On all my baitcasting, i get double the capcity.in case get lucky, and hook something big off the beach, jettys, and bays. Its also on all my spinning stuff, but the smaller sizes. Ive never had a problem what so ever. I make sure to rinse it off after any salt water trip.

[tacklejunkie]

VG used to use the black fireline stuff on his baitcaster. He left it at my house for a while. That stuff felt weird I remember but It's the only braid I ever played with. Kinda like dental floss almost

I'll go see about a spool of braid at one of the shops soon. I guess I'll grab a 300yrd practice spool. Probably power pro (I'm scared) or Izor or Suffix.

I take it Spiderwire at walmart is out of the question. lol What is that stuff? Just braid?

[PUDD MASTER BAITER]

casey if you ever use braid for drop shotting ,or any worming you wont go back.you can feel every pebble.

[Skyler]

casey if you ever use braid for drop shotting ,or any worming you wont go back.you can feel every pebble.

I concur. It's a whole 'nother ballgame when you can feel the fish think about biting, lol..

[tacklejunkie]

I'm using a Cumara and Fluorocarbon for drop shot! I can already feel too much as it is. Lol.

Feels like a bite when my pencil DS sinker slips into or out of a small patch of grass as it is already. I can feel where to stop my dropshot just next to cover through the rod. I got my drop shot just about perfected by now. I think I'll keep that technique as it is. Where I'm having the trouble is the fiesty night bass with bigger baits.

Plus, I like when fish pull drag. It would defeat the purpose for me if I could lock my drag and pull in the feesh! Unless using a technique where such a thing is required.

Just looking to braid up my ninja/night bass casting rig for them heavier baits and big fishies. Also to help with hooksets on C-rigs and chatters over mono. I don't usually fish jigs as often as C-rigs so mainly gearing towards that with the chatter aspect thrown in. Big fat C-rigs and Chatters are a blast to fish! Once in a while I do bring th jig box along to a select few lakes that the fish will cooperate with them though. Frogs I don't think it matters much as long as I wait for them to pull it down and take it whole before I reel down and swing on them.