Need help with boats

[Armofisher818]

My friend and I want to buy an aluminum boat to fish pyramid, castaic and may e the inner breakwalls and bays in La. I have a few questions i hope you guys can help with. We need something around 14-16 ft in length something like this http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/boa/3688698387.html in around 1300-1400$. Nowthis boat is a riveted one and looks pretty old, should we look for a welded one or is this one ok? And is the engine to small for this both? Max we would need to go would be 15mph with 2-4 people on board. And what should we look for when buying the both? Like leaking rivets, dings and dongs, dents, what should we be aware of? And does this boat look like a good boat! If we buy something like this we plan on making a casting platform up front and make her shiny with a carpet on bottom. And btw, which lakes require a 2 stroke?

[flyhigh123]

That boat can work, but there are better deals. Gregor's are nice as well.

Be patient and search craigslist. Good key words are bass boat, fishing boat, gregor, etc. You need a 4 stroke for DVL and some of the other lakes by there. Pyramid, castaic are all 2 stroke friendly.

Welded ( if done right) is better than rivet

[flyhigh123]

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/boa/3661648456.html

[Armofisher818]

Those are the only lakes we will be fishing mostly and we still have some time till we save up that much money so ill still be looking. But this boat is a flat bottom is that ok for the harbors and bays or when the wind kicks up?

[flyhigh123]

Those are the only lakes we will be fishing mostly and we still have some time till we save up that much money so ill still be looking. But this boat is a flat bottom is that ok for the harbors and bays or when the wind kicks up?

i"m not 100% sure, you may want to check with the other saltwater forum where they have more info, but to me if it's really just the harbors ur fine since the harbors have wall breakers. just check the weather and pick the right days to hit the salt. I wouldn't leave the harbor though in either of those 2 boats.

[DockRat]

I had a 13' Valco. It was good till we took it to PV from Redondo pounding some waves. One trip then was leaking bad, real bad. Sit for 20 minutes and it would have 4" of water in it. They can get hot too on sunny days.

Go welded if you can. Lots of deals on glass boats out there. Heavier but they don't bounce on the freeway as much and weight helps in the ocean too.

Check this boat.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/boa/3662392234.html

Dude looks like he needs money, dropping the price. Offer him $700. Then save $ for a motor and upgrade later.

Mar 22 1975 Tidecraft 15ft $900 (Long Beach) boats - by owner
Mar 22 1975 tidecraft 15ft $1200 (lbc) boats - by owner pic

What is up with your uncles Mercedes engine boat ?
DR

[DockRat]

Just check the weather and pick the right days to hit the salt. I wouldn't leave the harbor though in either of those 2 boats.

My buddies used to go to Catalina on a 13' Whaler with a 25hp all the time. One time they hit fog and missed the island. They sat for a while drifting till they heard a boat they asked for a compass heading. They missed the east end by a little. Lol.
DR

[Armofisher818]

I had a 13' Valco. It was good till we took it to PV from Redondo pounding some waves. One trip then was leaking bad, real bad. Sit for 20 minutes and it would have 4" of water in it. They can get hot too on sunny days.

Go welded if you can. Lots of deals on glass boats out there. Heavier but they don't bounce on the freeway as much and weight helps in the ocean too.

Check this boat.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/boa/3662392234.html

Dude looks like he needs money, dropping the price. Offer him $700. Then save $ for a motor and upgrade later.

Mar 22 1975 Tidecraft 15ft $900 (Long Beach) boats - by owner
Mar 22 1975 tidecraft 15ft $1200 (lbc) boats - by owner pic

What is up with your uncles Mercedes engine boat ?
DR
Its not my uncles its mine, your always wlelcome to come by and take a look if you want. Were doing the outside now and converting to a cc.

[Armofisher818]

I had a 13' Valco. It was good till we took it to PV from Redondo pounding some waves. One trip then was leaking bad, real bad. Sit for 20 minutes and it would have 4" of water in it. They can get hot too on sunny days.

Go welded if you can. Lots of deals on glass boats out there. Heavier but they don't bounce on the freeway as much and weight helps in the ocean too.

Check this boat.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/boa/3662392234.html

Dude looks like he needs money, dropping the price. Offer him $700. Then save $ for a motor and upgrade later.

Mar 22 1975 Tidecraft 15ft $900 (Long Beach) boats - by owner
Mar 22 1975 tidecraft 15ft $1200 (lbc) boats - by owner pic

What is up with your uncles Mercedes engine boat ?
DR

And do you think old fiberglass boats and a motor this old will hold up well? We cant really save up for a new engine so we just want to buy something that we can rely on and not sink more money into. Even 100$ would be a big deal to do.

[DockRat]

And do you think old fiberglass boats and a motor this old will hold up well?

When it comes to glass boats sometimes the older ones are built better. Hand laminated fiberglass cloth vs blown in glass with a chopper gun. Similar to comparing wood particle board vs plywood. As far as the motor, newer is better. Best to do a compression check (5 min max) and ask how old the impeller is. Should be changed every 1 - 2 years with the gear oil too.


My nephew takes his 1971 17' Whaler with a OLD mid 70's 90 hp Johnson to Catalina several times a year. They camp at the Isthmus. I checked it out when he bought it and he had 10' of chain ?
Told him to get 20' - 25'. He didn't listen. Last summer his boat was gone in the morning. Drifted about 1/2 mile and was on the beach. 1 1/2 boat lengths is better for anchoring outside the harbor.

[P.A.W.]

When I bought my Tracker I sold a 1962 Bluestar to get it. It was rivited and at over 40 years old had not 1 leak. Riveted boats can be tough. I would cation you to be careful with plans for a casting deck as that kind of boat might get unsteady with someone standing that high up. It's always a crapshoot buying a used boat/motor. If the motor is sound and it isn't currently leaking trhen I'd take it out almost anywhere that is fairly calm. BTW 15mph with 2 or more guys is not realistic for an 8hp. More like 10.

[Armofisher818]

Ok so i should check the compression (how do you do that), ask how old the impeller is, check for rot and leaks and any other info? And PAW, do you think this boat DR just posted up will handle a guy on the casting deck? If he gives this boat up for 700$ i think we got ourselves a deal! Looks like the trailer is a little rusty though that might need some work.

[flyhigh123]

one thing is that buying a boat, it's going to cost a lot more than the initial purchase. small repairs cost a lot. Any engine work, you could be looking at a minimum of a few hundred bucks... just make sure that you have reserves. If you want to keep it low cost, keep it simple. Less parts, less chance for soemthing to break

[DockRat]

Compression is important. You could buy a boat with a clean looking motor that runs ok, but if it had 115 psi in one cylinder and 85 psi in the other, might not last too long. Outboard motors are NOT cheap to rebuild. Especially a 4 strokes.



Ok so i should check the compression


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSmNMWTDtZE

[Armofisher818]

I just got pics from the dude with the cl ad and its a totally different boat than the one on the ad. It still looks new but its not rigged up like his its just the plain ones with the double windhshields.

[DockRat]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZNOP-3LzqE

Prior to purchasing a used outboard, One of the many important tests a individual could perform on a outboard motor is a compression test. It is very simple in my opinion and could make the difference between a reliable, dependable, smooth running engine, and a shinny expensive anchor. The thing to remember is after you complete a test with acceptable results, is that it doesn't guarantee your engine is going to run smoothly (or run at all). other tests and maintenance should be conducted. Carburator tune-up and cleaning, Ignition test and inspection ect...
In my own opinion this test will come down to two things,

1-"MONEY" you just eliminated one of the most expensive repairs or problems in a outboard motor. It could vary from simply changing a head gasket to Cylinder re boring & honing, and re sleeving oversizing piston rings ect...not a easy task for the novice and it's almost guaranteed to cost you more then you paid for the motor. Yes your engine will be operating like it's new after this process but why go through the trouble.
2- "TIME" The time it takes for you (or a mechanic! $$$) to find the exact problem could potentially be substantial. A simple thing as changing piston rings (on most older and some newer models) means to practically dismantle the whole engine, that doesn't happen in 5 minutes. And trust me, you always run into problems, snapping rusty head bolts is common and nerve racking ordeal that I don't wish upon no one.

Here's how I do a compression test

The first thing you'll need to get is a compression tester. You could get them at any major auto parts store. or Ebay but I recommend spending a little money here and getting quality.(you'll be surprised how often you use it)
-If the engine is working, start it and let it warm up then shut it down (preffered but not necessary)
-Disable ignition system,(varies from models) this could be done by pulling your lanyard for the stop button, unplugging the power pack, unplugging CDI or simply removing all plug wires, keep them far away from each other and the motor. you don't want the wires to jump spark.
-Remove all spark plugs and retain their order for trouble-shooting (appearance)
--Shut off fuel or disconnect fuel lines
-Place throttle wide open and leave the choke off. You want the maximum amount of air to enter the crankcase.
-Install your pressure tester to the top cylinder. remember all plugs are out! Make sure that the tester has been cleared or purged from your last application. "Sounds funny but I do it all the time"

-And crank the motor over. Honestly it's better to crank it over too many times, then not enough but generally 4 to 8 times. Better yet let the cylinder build it's peak pressure.
- Repeat to other cylinder(s).
-Each model will have an OEM parameter for pressure and variation
-15% variation from the highest to lowest reading is generically acceptable.
*different gauges may give different readings, but they all will reflect variation. Thats what we're most interested in...
For example; #1 cylinder has 100psi and #2 has 95psi That's a 5% difference and is acceptable.

[Armofisher818]

Thanks for that ill have to go pick one up from harbor frieght or autozone. But what if the engine starts would i still have to do this test? And how much would replacing an impeller cost? And do any pistons need to be changed on this old two stroke after 38 years of use?

[DockRat]

A low compression motor will run so long as it is not too low. Age is not as important as engine hours. A 2005 motor with 800 hours on it could be tired. You find one with less use you would be better off.

Changing pistons and rings is probably not worth it on a older motor. Best to try to get 90's or newer.
The impeller/water pump rubber blades get stiff and break off. Then the motor overheats and blows up.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n232/Viljarr/IMGP1873.jpg


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiQNhFYFvdQ