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aramirez1988
01-18-2013, 04:31 PM
Hey everyone,
I recently got a 12 Volt Sevylor Trolling Motor (18 pound thrust) for my Sevylor HF280. I still need a battery however, any suggestions? Every battery I see is pretty expensive. The cheapest one I found is a Sevylor branded one with a charger for $55 on eBay. I don't want to use a big battery like you would on a bigger boat... I've also heard about using motorcycle batteries? I'm looking for the least expensive option.

Anyways, any suggestions would be appreciated.

Hotbite909
01-18-2013, 06:40 PM
Hope this helps. But can't help with the price.
Understanding the different types of marine batteries available and their applications will help you select the right battery to power your rig.
Selecting a new 12-volt marine battery for your boat can be a daunting task for first-time buyers. Many types are available, each with a different purpose, and each with various advantages and disadvantages. With this handy buyer's guide, however, you'll have easily understandable information at your fingertips so you can choose a battery ideal for the tasks at hand.
Basic Battery Types
There are two basic types of 12-volt batteries: 1) cranking, or starting, batteries, which are designed to start your main engine, and 2) deep-cycle batteries, which are used to power electrical accessories such as trolling motors, fish-finders and radios. Dual-purpose batteries that can perform both these functions to some extent also are available.
Cranking Batteries
Engine cranking requires lots of power in a short burst. A battery with more surface area on the lead plates inside it delivers more fast power than one with less plate surface. For this reason, cranking batteries are made with thinner, more numerous lead plates. When the engine is running, the battery is quickly replenished by the alternator.
The marine cranking amp (MCA), or just cranking amp (CA), rating found on a battery's label measures a battery's starting power. And if you're using a newer model outboard with sophisticated computers, pumps and sensors that don't take kindly to being underpowered, you certainly don't want to scrimp on starting power. Check your engine's manual for its recommended MCA/CA rating before shopping for a battery, and always choose a battery with a rating equal to or greater than the recommended value.
Deep-Cycle Batteries
Trolling motors and other accessories sip power at a slower rate for extended periods. Batteries that power them usually aren't recharged until the end of the day. These deep discharges are hard on battery plates, so deep-cycle batteries have fewer yet thicker lead plates than cranking batteries and are built to withstand deep cycling.
A deep-cycle battery's reserve capacity (RC) rating indicates how long it can carry a specific load before falling into the dead zone. The higher the RC number, the longer the battery will power your accessories. Remember this when choosing a battery. Typically, a deep-cycle battery will have two or three times the RC of a cranking battery. A deep-cycle battery also can withstand several hundred discharge/recharge cycles, while a cranking battery is not designed to be totally discharged.
No Substitutions
The key thing to remember when purchasing cranking and deep-cycle battery types is not to substitute one for the other. If you use a cranking battery to power your trolling motor, for instance, the battery will soon overheat and fail, leaving you without power and requiring you to buy a new battery. A deep-cycle battery substituted for a cranking battery, on the other hand, may not provide the power needed to start your outboard. You could get stranded with an engine that won't run. The inherent design strengths of each battery type also are their weaknesses in opposite applications.
Dual-Purpose Batteries
It's usually best to install separate cranking and deep-cycle batteries. If your boat is small, however, and there's only room for one battery due to space or weight restrictions, consider buying a dual-purpose marine battery specially that handles starting and cycling. Bear in mind, however, most dual-purpose batteries won't start an engine quite as well as a true cranking battery and won't endure as many deep discharge/recharge cycles as a dedicated deep-cycle model.
Wet Cell, Gel or AGM?
Batteries can be further categorized as wet cell, gel or AGM (absorbed glass mat), depending on the configuration of the electrolyte, or conducting medium, inside the battery. Each type has pros and cons you should know before making a purchase.
Wet-Cell Batteries
The traditional lead-acid batteries we all are familiar with are wet-cell or "flooded-cell" batteries. Each wet-cell battery contains a liquid mixture of sulfuric acid and distilled water (usually referred to as "battery acid"). This is the most popular battery type, primarily because the price is generally less than other types, but also because these batteries have a number of inherent advantages. For example, a properly charged and maintained, premium wet-cell battery is capable of as many as 1,000 discharge/recharge cycles. This can translate to many years of dependable service at an initial cost substantially less than comparable capacity gel or AGM batteries. Wet-cell batteries also are less likely to be damaged by overcharging and tend to weigh less than comparable gel or AGM batteries.
One disadvantage of wet-cell batteries is the fact that most have vented, interior accessible designs. This requires they be regularly inspected and the cells topped off with distilled water. Venting also releases hydrogen gas, which means the battery compartment must be well ventilated. Other drawbacks include possible spilling of corrosive battery acid, a higher rate of self-discharge (6% to 7% per month) and the fact that wet-cell batteries are more fragile in high-vibration environments such as boats.
AGM Batteries
AGM batteries feature a dense filling of absorbent glass matting packed tightly between the battery's plates. The matting is saturated with acid electrolyte. This allows oxygen to recombine with hydrogen gas to replenish the battery's water content and alleviate the need for refilling. No maintenance is required, except periodic external cleaning. And because these batteries are sealed, acid inside cannot spill and flammable gases aren't released. AGM batteries also can be installed at any angle. They are shock and vibration resistant, submersible without damage unlike wet-cell batteries, and have a low self-discharge rate (around 3% per month at 77 degrees F). Primarily drawbacks are higher initial cost, greater weight than comparable wet-cell batteries and the fact water cannot be replaced if the battery is accidentally overcharged.
Gel Batteries
Gel batteries are filled with liquid electrolyte that is gelled with silicates before the battery is sealed. Like AGM batteries, they use recombinant technology that eliminates the need for adding water. They are maintenance free, sealed, low-temperature tolerant, shock/vibration resistant and have long cycle life. Their most notable advantage is resistance to over-discharge that can damage other battery types. Gels have an internal self-discharge rate less than 1 percent per month, so they can be stored for long periods without being recharged. And because they aren't prone to develop life-shortening plate sulfation when left uncharged, they are a good choice for boaters who often forget to recharge batteries promptly after use.
Gel batteries show their dark side when it comes to price and recharging. They generally cost more than other battery types with the same RC and MCA ratings. Most manufacturers recommend charging them to at least 13.8 volts, but no more than 14.1 volts. Standard marine battery chargers routinely reach higher voltages, so chargers designed to include gel batteries or those with a gel setting must be used.
In Conclusion
Understanding the differences between the various types of batteries, and the pros and cons of each, should no doubt prove useful when you're trying to decide which battery will work best to crank your boat and power all your accessories. Making the right choice eliminates many worries when you are on the water, allowing you to concentrate on the most important reason you bought your boat in the first place -- having fun.
Shop all Marine Batteries
I got the info from the internet because I need to get one too.

DockRat
01-18-2013, 07:48 PM
Depends on how many hours you want to run.
A small bike battery won't last to long.
Higher cranking amps is better, CCA.

casting call
01-18-2013, 11:58 PM
Depends on how many hours you want to run.
A small bike battery won't last to long.
Higher cranking amps is better, CCA.

Actually, CCA's are irrelevant if he is just using a trolling motor.
What you want to look for is the Amp Hour (Ah) rating. If your battery is rated for 100 Ah,and your trolling motor draws 10 Amps, you can run your motor at full draw for 10 Hours.

Another rating is Reserve Capacity (or Reserve Minutes). Its a rating that tells you how many minutes your battery can carry a 25 Amp load for. So if your battery is rated at 100 minutes RC, and your trolling motor draws 25 Amps, you can run the trolling motor for 100 minutes at full draw.

As a general rule, trolling motors draw ~1 amp per lb of thrust, but check with the manufacturer for your trolling motor to be sure and find out what the RC or Ah rating is on the battery.

aramirez1988
01-19-2013, 11:55 AM
Wow, thanks for the responses guys. They really help! I'm gonna do some more research on what batteries would be suitable based on your suggestions, keep 'em comin'!

aramirez1988
01-25-2013, 11:11 AM
Update:
The Sevylor trolling motor I have is rated to draw 15A, while the Sevylor branded battery set I was thinking of getting for $55 was only an 8Ah. So I decided to check out some other ones. So far I found this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12V-35AH-Light-Trolling-Motor-Sealed-Battery-Sevylor-Minn-Kota-Golf-Cart-AGM-/400384241634?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item5d38c2afe2&_uhb=1

Poxy Boggards
01-25-2013, 02:31 PM
Update:
The Sevylor trolling motor I have is rated to draw 15A, while the Sevylor branded battery set I was thinking of getting for $55 was only an 8Ah. So I decided to check out some other ones. So far I found this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12V-35AH-Light-Trolling-Motor-Sealed-Battery-Sevylor-Minn-Kota-Golf-Cart-AGM-/400384241634?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item5d38c2afe2&_uhb=1


That one will not power your motor for more than a few hours. You need something that is over 100AH if you plan to fish for more than a few hours. That is unless you plan to just use it to motor between spots before anchoring. If you plan to troll with it, you will need a much larger battery.

Poxy Boggards
01-25-2013, 02:34 PM
Actually, CCA's are irrelevant if he is just using a trolling motor.
What you want to look for is the Amp Hour (Ah) rating. If your battery is rated for 100 Ah,and your trolling motor draws 10 Amps, you can run your motor at full draw for 10 Hours.

Another rating is Reserve Capacity (or Reserve Minutes). Its a rating that tells you how many minutes your battery can carry a 25 Amp load for. So if your battery is rated at 100 minutes RC, and your trolling motor draws 25 Amps, you can run the trolling motor for 100 minutes at full draw.

As a general rule, trolling motors draw ~1 amp per lb of thrust, but check with the manufacturer for your trolling motor to be sure and find out what the RC or Ah rating is on the battery.


What is the AH rating for your battery CC? Can you use it trolling all day?

casting call
01-25-2013, 04:39 PM
That one will not power your motor for more than a few hours. You need something that is over 100AH if you plan to fish for more than a few hours. That is unless you plan to just use it to motor between spots before anchoring. If you plan to troll with it, you will need a much larger battery.

Ya that battery wont last your more than a couple hours. Unless weight is an issue, I would get a bigger battery. I got mine from walmart for around 80 bucks, which includes the core charge of 9 dollars. Its a lead acid battery, 109Ah. Also, dont forget to get a good battery charger. DONT use a regular car battery fast charger, you will ruin the life of the battery. A two stage charger, first stage fast charge, then dropping down to a slow charge. Something else to research...... sorry dude, lol.

Proxy, I can troll all day with this battery. I have a 30 lb thrust minkota motor. I usually run between 2nd and 4th speed, 5th speed if i want to get somewhere "quick". Ill troll for about 4-6 hours and my battery will still have around 55% charge.

fishfinder
01-28-2013, 10:16 PM
the ones at autozone work great. just keep it on a battery tender, and it will last you years. i had mine 5 years and worked like new when i sold the boat. Cost is about $80. get a trickle charger from walmart, and always keep it on it when you are not using it.

DockRat
01-29-2013, 05:50 AM
Actually, CCA's are irrelevant if he is just using a trolling motor.
What you want to look for is the Amp Hour (Ah) rating.
Yes and no.
A high AH rating battery will have a higher CCA.

casting call
01-29-2013, 05:46 PM
I dont get it? If hes using the battery for dual purpose, ie, starting up an outboard and for his trolling motor, then yes, look at the CCA rating. But if its just for using on a trolling motor, the CCA rating doesnt matter because you are not asking the battery to provide you with a large burst of power for a short period of time. Yes, the bigger the battery, the higher rating for Ah and CCA for dual purpose battery, but that goes without saying.

I would not recommend using a car battery to run a trolling motor, no matter what its physical size is. Stick to a deep cycle marine battery.

DockRat
01-29-2013, 06:28 PM
What is the difference between a normal lead-acid car battery and a deep cycle battery?


People who have recreational vehicles (RVs) and boats are familiar with deep cycle batteries. These batteries are also common in golf carts and large solar power systems (the sun produces power during the day and the batteries store some of the power for use at night). If you have read the article How Emergency Power Systems Work, then you also know that an alternative to gasoline-powered generators is an inverter powered by one or more deep cycle batteries.

Both car batteries and deep cycle batteries are lead-acid batteries that use exactly the same chemistry for their operation (see How Batteries Work for more information). The difference is in the way that the batteries optimize their design:

A car's battery is designed to provide a very large amount of current for a short period of time. This surge of current is needed to turn the engine over during starting. Once the engine starts, the alternator provides all the power that the car needs, so a car battery may go through its entire life without ever being drained more than 20 percent of its total capacity. Used in this way, a car battery can last a number of years. To achieve a large amount of current, a car battery uses thin plates in order to increase its surface area.
A deep cycle battery is designed to provide a steady amount of current over a long period of time. A deep cycle battery can provide a surge when needed, but nothing like the surge a car battery can. A deep cycle battery is also designed to be deeply discharged over and over again (something that would ruin a car battery very quickly). To accomplish this, a deep cycle battery uses thicker plates.

A car battery typically has two ratings:

CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) - The number of amps that the battery can produce at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) for 30 seconds
RC (Reserve Capacity) - The number of minutes that the battery can deliver 25 amps while keeping its voltage above 10.5 volts

Typically, a deep cycle battery will have two or three times the RC of a car battery, but will deliver one-half or three-quarters the CCAs. In addition, a deep cycle battery can withstand several hundred total discharge/recharge cycles, while a car battery is not designed to be totally discharged.

http://forums.iboats.com/non-repair-outboard-discussions/batteries-deep-cycle-vs-regular-car-batteries-2346.html

DockRat
01-29-2013, 06:36 PM
I would not recommend using a car battery to run a trolling motor, no matter what its physical size is. Stick to a deep cycle marine battery.

Go with a deep cycle.

I have a car battery for my Minnkota for a couple years, BUT it rarely gets used.
maybe 30 min max when drifting and need to bump the boat (drifting into rocks, kelp ect).
Only use it so I don't have to start the 150 hp and not used for trolling.

DockRat
01-29-2013, 06:41 PM
Marine Battery Vs. Car Battery
By Karl Martin, eHow Contributor


Marine Battery Vs. Car Battery thumbnail
Lead acid car batteries are classified as starter batteries.

To understand the difference between marine and car batteries, it is helpful to know how rechargeable lead acid batteries are constructed. Lead acid batteries have an array of two different forms of lead plates, immersed in diluted sulfuric acid. The chemical reaction of the electrolyte with the lead plates creates an electrical charge, which is stored in the battery. Battery plate thickness is an indicator of the application for which the battery is best suited.
Other People Are Reading

Plate Size

Rechargeable lead acid batteries are classified in two categories. One type is starter batteries, used in automobiles, and the second type is deep cycle batteries, often used for recharging solar power systems. Car batteries or starter batteries have more lead plates than deep cycle types, but the plates are much thinner. Deep cycle batteries have fewer plates, but the plates are heavier and thicker. Marine batteries are hybrids and fall somewhere in between, similar to car batteries, but with slightly thicker plates.
Voltage

Similar to car batteries, the majority of marine batteries supply 12 volts DC. Car batteries are rated in cranking amps (CA) or cold cranking amps (CCA) while marine starter batteries may have a marine cranking amp (MCA) rating. Quality deep cycle marine batteries will have a reserve capacity (RC) rating that indicates how long the battery will operate before losing power. Marine batteries are also capable of more frequent and deeper discharges than car batteries.


Car Batteries

Car batteries have a greater number of thinner lead plates than the marine type, so they discharge a high initial current to spin the starter motor and crank the engine over. Once the engine is running, the alternator recharges the battery to run lights, ac/heater, radio, etc. When maintained, car batteries can last for years and be charged repeatedly. However, plate damage can occur if the battery is discharged more than 20 percent of full capacity for an extended period, or sits for weeks without being used.
Marine Batteries
Marine batteries operate devices such as trolling motors, navigation lights and fish finders.

Marine batteries are sturdier than car batteries to prevent damage from shaking and vibration caused when a boat rides on the water surface. Although sturdier, most marine batteries are not intended to be discharged more than 50 percent capacity, compared to deep cycle batteries, which can be discharged 80 percent continually, without plate damage. Good quality deep cycle marine batteries are recommended for boats equipped with trolling motors, radios, bilge pumps, navigation lights, GPS/fish finders and other electrical devices.

Safety

Whether working with car or marine batteries, use caution when handling or recharging. Lead acid batteries pose dangerous shock, burn and explosive hazards, which is why professionals use gloves and face protection. One common mistake is accidental shock by shorting out battery terminals with metal wrenches or jewelry. Although less common, another serious concern is skin burns from sulfuric acid due to battery explosion resulting from improper charging. Ventilation is very important. When working with lead acid batteries, always seek professional advice, if unsure, rather than risk injury.


Read more: Marine Battery Vs. Car Battery | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/about_6500143_marine-battery-vs_-car-battery.html#ixzz2JQGnwMgc

casting call
01-29-2013, 06:42 PM
I still dont understand what point you are trying to make? You told the OP to look for the higher CCA rating, which in his case does not matter. And then suggesting him use a car battery from a honda civic as it is smaller than a standard car battery? Isnt a honda civic battery STILL a car battery?
You do realize though that deep cycle batteries can be lead acid and not just AGM or GEL right? CCA's are IRRELEVANT when you are applying it strickly to a trolling motor where the amperage draw is constant, and not demanding a burst of energy it takes to start a motor.

DockRat
01-29-2013, 07:38 PM
I still dont understand what point you are trying to make?

I'm saying if he only needed a couple hours or less and is on a budget then a $20 battery from Pick a Part will work. If he wants multi hours then spend $100 on a new deep cycle.
3 years ago I bought a Sears Die hard marine starting for my boat and a Die hard deep cycle for the second battery with a A, B, Both switch.
Then a used 3rd battery that is a car battery for the trolling motor which rarely gets used.
Sorry about the confusion.


Go with a deep cycle.

aramirez1988
01-30-2013, 11:50 AM
Yup, that is generally my plan. Since my boat is a small, two person inflatable (rated for 4 tiny people) I only plan on putting around to a spot to anchor down for a bit and only use the motor for point to point travel. I hardly ever go trolling but I plan to learn; once I learn I plan on getting a bigger, 100+ Ah battery that will allow a lot of draw time.

casting call
01-30-2013, 01:12 PM
DR, ok i gotcha now! aramirez, 4 tiny people...lol that reminds me of this

http://youtu.be/NQ-8IuUkJJc

Keep in mind also, that a trolling motor doesnt exactly go light speed, so travelling even a quarter mile can take up to half an hour. Keep your oars handy!
Anyway, lots of great info from these replies, so goodluck and have fun!

BALLERONBUDGET
01-30-2013, 03:15 PM
fattest costco marine batt ~$85. 3yr warranty... also factor in total wt of everyone and gear, wind, current, and etc...guestimate use or buy charge indicator... minnkota also recommends inline fuse 60amp about $10 online.. ; when all else fails start paddling or hope someone tows u in..! safety flag and or horn is always a +++ just in case

aramirez1988
01-30-2013, 04:03 PM
DR, ok i gotcha now! aramirez, 4 tiny people...lol that reminds me of this


Keep in mind also, that a trolling motor doesnt exactly go light speed, so travelling even a quarter mile can take up to half an hour. Keep your oars handy!
Anyway, lots of great info from these replies, so goodluck and have fun!

Haha yea I can see why that popped in your mind.. But yea I'm only planning on using it at places like SARL or Castaic Lagoon and maybe the occasional Pudd. I mainly want to use it when I go camping at Shaver Lake during the summer. Either way I only really want something as an assistant for my Sevylor inflatable so I don't have to always paddle!

@Baller
That is a great idea for the inline fuse and safety flag/horn.. I'll have to check that out