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View Full Version : Seized-up Outboard.... Need Advice!



TaperSteve
12-11-2012, 04:54 PM
OK so i've got a 1999 Evinrude 8HP 4 stroke motor that seized up on me this past Saturday.

I really hate to admit it but I ran the thing out of oil and it froze up. I don't want to throw in the towel and stick a fork in her. If there is anything I can do to fix it I can use all the advice I can get. If anyone has any tips or suggestions I can really use them to get this thing purring like a kitten again.

Thank you for any help you can give me!

TaperSteve

cutbait
12-11-2012, 05:07 PM
OK so i've got a 1999 Evinrude 8HP 4 stroke motor that seized up on me this past Saturday.

I really hate to admit it but I ran the thing out of oil and it froze up. I don't want to throw in the towel and stick a fork in her. If there is anything I can do to fix it I can use all the advice I can get. If anyone has any tips or suggestions I can really use them to get this thing purring like a kitten again.

Thank you for any help you can give me!

TaperSteve

What happened is your piston seized inside its cylinder. You gotta tear down and inspect damage. Odds are all bearings shot. Multiple cylinder damage, burnt crankshaft, list goes on....

You need a new powerhead or rebuild this one.

I guarantee you will find less headache. Searching for a new motor and probably cheaper and part this one oit

Sir.Snags.A.Lot
12-11-2012, 05:16 PM
Alright Steve, I saw you guys on Saturday. Sorry to hear thats what happened. I looked on the internet for a good few hours and this site is the best one i could find. Hopefully it works for you. This guys problem was due to storage but he does mention that it should help with motors that have seized due to lack of lubrication.

http://www.seized-engine.com/boat-motors.html

Good luck bro.

cutbait
12-11-2012, 05:26 PM
With all due respect damage has been done and that product will not repair burnt parts nor repair damaged poston rings and bearings

Jig-Guy
12-11-2012, 05:37 PM
Purchase another engine. Parts & labor will be to much money for what you will end up with. I destroyed my 25HP Johnson with messed up gas:Sad:. It would have cost more to repair the engine than purchase another used engine. Scraped it and my old 18 HP merc. IMHO

Kevman
12-11-2012, 07:50 PM
Here is the back woods way to try to get it unstuck. No warranties or guaranties, but this worked for me on an old Suzuki 2HP that froze up and a lot old timers use a similar method on car engines. Best of all, this method is cheap and if your outboard is already trashed you really don't have anything to lose.

0. Add the proper amount of motor oil to the oil case.
1. Go buy at least a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil. You may even need a quart. It's easy to find. I think even Wally World sells it.
2. Take out the plugs and fill up each cylinder with MMO. Replace plugs to hold the oil in.
3. Let it soak for several days. (longer is better)
4. Every day, hit a solid part of the engine block preferably near the cylinders with a rubber mallet a bunch of times. The vibration helps the oil penetrate to the "stuck" part of the motor. (use a metal hammer or dead-blow hammer if you dare) Top off the oil in the cylinders every day so they stay full.
5. After the oil soaking and mallet hitting has been done for several days, take the starter recoil cord assembly off the motor. Try to observe which way the nut under the starter assembly turns when you pull the starter cord.
6. Remove plugs and cover the whole engine with a rag. If this works, oil may spray everywhere.
7. Attach an impact wrench to the big nut under the starter recoil cord assembly. (if you don't have an impact wrench, a hammer drill DeWalt might do)
8. Give the nut a good crank with the impact wrench in the same direction that the starter cord would turn it.

If the motor turns, you might have gotten lucky. If not, repeat steps 2-4 and try again in a few more days. In any case, even if you get it to turn you could have torn rings, fried bearings, scored cylinders or cylinders walls, etc., so don't expect the motor to run like new. Your compression will almost surely be reduced, which means less power and rougher running and maybe difficulty starting as well.

Still, a rough motor beats no motor.

Good Luck,
Kev

NoHo ART
12-11-2012, 07:53 PM
sorry to say but since its just a 8hp its gonna be cheaper to replace then try to fix bro

TaperSteve
12-12-2012, 02:58 PM
Thanks for all the input so far guys but at this point I have zero dollars and zero cents to put towards a new motor.

Kevman - I've been looking online quit a bit and have found similar tips from others who've had the same problem. I'm sure damage has been done but I'm still going to give it a go and try your advice. I haven't pulled the plugs yet but I was able to get the flywheel to move some using a rachet. As soon as I get a chance I'll pull the plugs and go buy some Anti-Seize Oil or MMO. Thanks for your input!

TS

Hometown
12-12-2012, 03:57 PM
wow that sucks steve good luck buddy

cutbait
12-12-2012, 04:37 PM
Thanks for all the input so far guys but at this point I have zero dollars and zero cents to put towards a new motor.

Kevman - I've been looking online quit a bit and have found similar tips from others who've had the same problem. I'm sure damage has been done but I'm still going to give it a go and try your advice. I haven't pulled the plugs yet but I was able to get the flywheel to move some using a rachet. As soon as I get a chance I'll pull the plugs and go buy some Anti-Seize Oil or MMO. Thanks for your input!

TS

TS, I feel ya on the money dawg but you have to look at this mechanically, anything you do hoping that anything short of a rebuild is just a waste of your time.

fishinone
12-12-2012, 05:13 PM
I wanted to say something encouraging but this actually sounds like the end of your motor.

It's possible that you could free an outboard that seized during storage but I think you're talking about one that seized while it was running. That is very different.

With the description that you give of running it out of oil, I can't see how anything less than replacing the power head with a rebuild or another power head will help you.

Even if you get it going the way that it is, you'll still have big problems.

cutbait
12-12-2012, 05:49 PM
Even if you get it going the way that it is, you'll still have big problems.

FACT!!!!!

And a half day fishing before a tow back to the ramp

Kevman
12-12-2012, 06:18 PM
Thanks for all the input so far guys but at this point I have zero dollars and zero cents to put towards a new motor.

Kevman - I've been looking online quit a bit and have found similar tips from others who've had the same problem. I'm sure damage has been done but I'm still going to give it a go and try your advice. I haven't pulled the plugs yet but I was able to get the flywheel to move some using a rachet. As soon as I get a chance I'll pull the plugs and go buy some Anti-Seize Oil or MMO. Thanks for your input!

TS

Steve - Oil first, then soak for days, then try to turn. Don't try to turn it dry. You did enough damage doing that already.

Good Luck,
Kev

DockRat
12-13-2012, 06:46 AM
Easy fix.

1) Drain oil, gas.
2) Connect 10' of chain to it, either to powerhead or around the prop.
3) Connect your rope to the chain.
Perfectly good anchor and will keep the boat from drifting.
Get a couple oars and your good to go.
Good luck, DR

TaperSteve
12-13-2012, 12:04 PM
I understand what y'all are saying and I agree with you. I'm about 99% sure that she's done but if I can spend $5 to $10 to try and get her free'd up and in working condition again then I'm going to atleast try instead of just assuming it's a done deal.


Steve - Oil first, then soak for days, then try to turn. Don't try to turn it dry. You did enough damage doing that already.

Yeah I filled it back up with oil and let it soak for a few days before I tried to get it to move. I just pulled the plugs today and as soon as I get a chance I'm going to go pick-up some Anti-Seize Oil or MMO and fill up the holes (insert joke here).

TS

TaperSteve
12-13-2012, 03:55 PM
OK so I've got some more info. My Father who is mechanically inclined (vehicles not outboards) came by today to see if he could help. We were able to determine that both pistons are moving freely in theirs cylinders. The prop moves freely as does the flywheel. He seems to think that the thing is stuck in gear and we can't get it into neuteral. When it staled at the lake last Friday I had it in neuteral and was giving it some gas trying to get it to warm-up and both my fishing buddy See Chris Fish and I agreed that it sounded like it had tried to kick into gear when it staled. Keeping my fingers crossed that the damage isn't as bad as it appears and maybe I can still figure out and fix the problem.

With all that being said I can still use any help and tips anyone can provide.

Thank you for all your input everybody I really do appreciate!

TS

cutbait
12-13-2012, 04:12 PM
OK so I've got some more info. My Father who is mechanically inclined (vehicles not outboards) came by today to see if he could help. We were able to determine that both pistons are moving freely in theirs cylinders. The prop moves freely as does the flywheel. He seems to think that the thing is stuck in gear and we can't get it into neuteral. When it staled at the lake last Friday I had it in neuteral and was giving it some gas trying to get it to warm-up and both my fishing buddy See Chris Fish and I agreed that it sounded like it had tried to kick into gear when it staled. Keeping my fingers crossed that the damage isn't as bad as it appears and maybe I can still figure out and fix the problem.

With all that being said I can still use any help and tips anyone can provide.

Thank you for all your input everybody I really do appreciate!

TS

Man, I'm going on very little you've described and hamstrung by the lack of availibilty of seeing it.

BUT!

1. how low is too low in engine fluid?

2. You said you got the flywheel to turn barely with a ratchet earlier, yet the pistons are now free? How do you know the pistons are free now? cranking with the starter or the ratchet?

3. how is the prop spinning freely and you suspect it in gear? By turning the flywheel the prop turns also? or just spinning the prop and it spins freely.

4. You say it sounded like it tried to kick in gear, a thunk sound right?.. Where the spark plugs in when it was spinning freely?

I'm trying to figure out how it can go from barely moving with a ratchet yesterday to today every thing is spinning fine now?

fishinone
12-13-2012, 04:21 PM
Hopefully this will turn out better than the original description indicated that it might.

Good Luck Steve!

TaperSteve
12-13-2012, 05:53 PM
how low is too low in engine fluid?

Again I hate to admit it but I'm a dum bass like in Dumb & Dumber and it was bone dry.


You said you got the flywheel to turn barely with a ratchet earlier?

After I got the flywheel to move with the rachet I can now turn it by hand freely about a quarter turn each way (half turn total) but it still has a sticking point going each way.


How do you know the pistons are free now?

After pulling out the plugs we got a flashlight to look in the plug holes while turning the flywheel and you can see both pistons moving. It was a little hard to see in there so we stuck a screwdriver in there to be sure and you can clearly feel both pistons moving back and forth and hitting the screwdriver.


how is the prop spinning freely and you suspect it in gear? By turning the flywheel the prop turns also? or just spinning the prop and it spins freely.

The prop does NOT move at all when I turn the flywheel but spins freely each way by hand.


You say it sounded like it tried to kick in gear, a thunk sound right?..

Yes exactly! A loud thunk noise then the motor went dead.


Where the spark plugs in when it was spinning freely?

I was able to get the flywheel to move by hand freely before I ever took out the plugs.


I'm trying to figure out how it can go from barely moving with a ratchet yesterday to today every thing is spinning fine now?

It's still in the same condition as it was yesterday. Props spins by hand, both pistons move freely, flywheel turns each way by hand each way but is still sticking going each way.

Thanks for your time man I really.... really appreciate it!

TS

cutbait
12-13-2012, 06:33 PM
And you can't make a complete rev by hand? and what happens when you turn the key?

Gear shift is on side of motor right? not a throttle lever on console type? Have you tried to shift into gear?

TaperSteve
12-13-2012, 06:39 PM
Nah I can't get it to rev by hand when it hits the sticking point (using ratchet).

No electric start....

Tried shifting it in all three positions (F,N,R) but it seems to be doing the same thing in all three positions.

TS

DockRat
12-13-2012, 06:57 PM
Good news it's not seized.

Check this site.

http://www.outboardrepairs.com/evinrude/

http://www.outboardrepairs.com/evinrude/#evinrude_outboard_heating__cooling

drifter023
12-13-2012, 07:02 PM
It is not stuck in gear it is stuck in neutral maybe cause if stuck in gear would not turn free by hand. I think you are waisting time with this project. Look for another motor and put check oil before use sticker on it sorry but been there done this...:Titanic:

DockRat
12-13-2012, 07:02 PM
Bone dry ?
Put oil in it then pull the plugs and see if it turns over.

cutbait
12-13-2012, 07:03 PM
Well obviously the pistons are not gaulded in the cylinders as I thought. Im wondering now about the valves stuck or broke preventing that full rotation. .. when you looked in the cylinders were there any scaring in them?

TaperSteve
12-13-2012, 09:25 PM
Where would the valve stem covers be located? Here's what I found online but I can't figure it out.

"Remove the valve covers from both cylinder heads by removing each valve cover's retaining bolts located on the lip of each valve cover with a wrench; then pull the valve covers off the cylinder heads to access the rocker arms."

"If the engine refuses to rotate, use a socket to remove the valve cover bolts and remove the valve covers."

"Remove the valve cover, or covers, with a socket."

I'll inspect the cylinders through the plug holes in the morning and probably take a few pics and maybe a video and post them here.

TS

cutbait
12-14-2012, 05:19 AM
Where would the valve stem covers be located? Here's what I found online but I can't figure it out.

"Remove the valve covers from both cylinder heads by removing each valve cover's retaining bolts located on the lip of each valve cover with a wrench; then pull the valve covers off the cylinder heads to access the rocker arms."

"If the engine refuses to rotate, use a socket to remove the valve cover bolts and remove the valve covers."

"Remove the valve cover, or covers, with a socket."

I'll inspect the cylinders through the plug holes in the morning and probably take a few pics and maybe a video and post them here.

TS

LOL, sounds like your inching towards a rebuild?

Take pics

HBAR
12-15-2012, 06:34 PM
Easy fix.

1) Drain oil, gas.
2) Connect 10' of chain to it, either to powerhead or around the prop.
3) Connect your rope to the chain.
Perfectly good anchor and will keep the boat from drifting.
Get a couple oars and your good to go.
Good luck, DR

This almost sounds like someone forgetting the plug or seeing his boat "floating away"

one long cast
12-17-2012, 11:45 AM
Taper I can tell you now don't attempt to repair it. As stated by others it will never run good unless you pour a ton of money in it. More than what a good used motor will cost. I read were you have zero dollas to spend on a good used motor, you will spend more on a repair job. Sell the old motor for parts to get some money. The power head is shot, kapoot, done fried, dead etc. Buy a good used one so statrt saving you money.

TaperSteve
12-17-2012, 03:32 PM
Thanks for all the help guys!

I actually broke down the motor yesterday and the day before and found that one of the two connecting rods is broke. Everything else looks OK so far even the crankshaft. With all that said I found some used parts (connecting rods, crankshaft, pistons) for dirt cheap and will probably do a partial rebuild for now till I can save up enough funds to get another motor. I also figured out that the thing was NOT out of oil like I had first thought. Apparently the previous owner had lost the dipstick and replaced it with another one that looks like it was too short to even reach into the oil pan. I plan on ordering another dipstick too if I do end up deciding to do a partial rebuild. We'll see what happens I'll keep y'all posted for your entertainment and amusement. Atleast now I know it wasn't my own dum-bass fault because the thing was full of oil.

TS

fishinone
12-17-2012, 05:00 PM
Not being out of oil is good news. Merry Christmas!

cutbait
12-17-2012, 05:30 PM
Yup..

I strongly suggest you bite the bullet and replace rings and bearings, maybe hone cylinders, swap out lifters, push rods, etc while your in there.

Just bite the bullet this winter and take your time and do it right! Complete rebuild cheap since all your parts and block are fine from not running oita oil

Stalker Of Fish
02-07-2013, 11:22 AM
Since you added new oil have you tried draining the oil again to see if there is a lot of metal debris in it?