Advanced FLOAT TUBE RIGGING: Arming the INFLATABLE NAVY for BATTLE!! "How to" w/ pics

[sapdawg11]

When I began float tubing, like most people I started with the bare minimum…A float tube, a pair of waders, fins, a PFD, and a single fishing rod. I used the provided Velcro lashing straps sewn into the float tube’s canvas shell to hold my rod when it wasn’t in use, held my fishing rod in my hands when it was in use, and fumbled with the stupid thing when I actually succeeded in catching a fish! Watching me from the shoreline HAD to have provided some laughs for any nearby anglers. But who cares?! I was having a blast and was slamming more fish than any of the chuckleheads on the shoreline! Truth be told, we don’t come out of the womb knowing how to float tube. There is no “Float Tubing Chromosome” that some are blessed to have. It takes time. And for most float tubers, a lot of that time, both in and out of the water, is spent thinking, “How can I make this whole float tubing gig more comfortable?”

From the minute I made my first kick away from the shoreline in a float tube, I realized that some “tinkering” could result in a dramatically more comfortable fishing experience. Subsequently, I have spent countless hours in the garage and far too much money at the hardware store to come up with a system that works for me. And what I’m hoping to do here is share a bit of what I’ve done to make my float tube setup as comfortable, convenient, economical, and portable as possible in a format that should make this a snap for you to put together too!!

What many may not realize is how easy it is to get their float tubes completely dialed in. PVC piping is a wonder material for rigging your float tube that is inexpensive and incredibly easy to work with. With only a few very basic hand tools and a little bit of time, you can create a long-lasting fishing apparatus that will make your time on the water so much more enjoyable and that you’ll be proud to show your buddies! And putting this wonder material to good use is exactly what I hope to show you how to do herein…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/1myfloattubedetails-1.jpg

Below you will find step by step instructions for building much of the rig pictured above. This setup is completely modular and can be dialed in and modified to exactly how YOU want it! It also collapses so that it can fit IN ITS ENTIERETY into your float tube bag! Tinkering requires a personal touch and you are strongly encouraged to modify anything and/or everything to fit your needs!! In NO way, shape or form is this the most simplistic, cheapest or ONLY mode of accomplishing the goal of holding your gear…but it is my way! I’ve been using this same rig for about 6 years now (with a little modifying here and there) and LOVE IT. Everything is just how I like it and it has not failed me yet!


My friend Steve was nice enough to loan me his Outcast Fish Cat 4 Deluxe for this project so all sizes and dimensions provided will be as per the specs of this particular boat. I also have my setup rigged for my Super Fat Cat and will provide the specs for that boat as well. So the sizes and dimensions listed herein will work for the Fish Cat 4-LCS, Fish Cat 4 Deluxe, Fat Cat, and Super Fat Cat. I have a Prowler on its way and will be able to provide those specs in the coming days to complete the Outcast lineup (other than the Trinity). And what else is great about this system, is that if you have multiple different boats (e.g. a Fish Cat 4 Deluxe and a Super Fat Cat), you can easily transfer this system among your fleet! No doubt some variation of this rig should work on other boats such as the ODC 420 and Caddis boats, however, I have been an Outcast guy for a long time so have no idea what would be required to do so! But be sure to let us know if you come up with something!!

All of the materials (piping, hardware, adhesives, tape, etc.) required for this project can be purchased for about $50-$60 from your local hardware store and the entire project can be assembled in an afternoon. Remember, we are not building a piano! No need to agonize over 1/64 of an inch or a slightly rough cut!!! I THOROUGHLY RECOMMEND READING THIS ENTIRE SET OF INSTRUCTIONS PRIOR TO BEGINNING YOUR BUILD FOR OBVIOUS REASONS! And most importantly, be sure to have fun, take your time, and enjoy reaping the benefits of having a convenient setup that stores well and keeps all of your gear at your fingertips! HERE WE GO!!!

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/2Floattuberigged.jpg

REQUIRED TOOLS

The list of tools required to complete this project is short and are probably tools you already have on hand. If you do not have a particular tool, use that ingenuity of yours to figure out a way around it! Or use your wallet to go out and buy the tool!!

Tools

Tape Measurer
Pencil
Marker
PVC cutters
Drill
5/16" Drill Bit
5/8” Drill Bit (can substitute with a 1" step bit)
Hammer
Pliers and/or a crescent wrench
Miter Saw (optional)
Vise (optional)


SHOPPING LIST

As stated previously, all of these bits and pieces were purchased from Lowe’s. But these are common items and I’m sure that most hardware stores will have them.

PVC AISLE

(2) 8’ Schedule 40 1/2” PVC piping (this includes a little extra “just in case”)
(1) 5’ Schedule 40 1 1/2” PVC piping
(1) SHORTEST PIECE YOU CAN BUY 1” PVC piping (will only need a couple of inches of material)
(8) 1/2” T connectors (slip-slip)
(8) 1/2" Elbows (slip-slip)
(1) 1 1/2” to 1” Reducing T connector (slip-slip)
(2) 1" to 1/2" reducing elbows (slip-slip)
(1) 1" T connector
(1) 1 1/2” end cap
(7) 1/2” Screw together couplings (slip-slip)
(1) Small bottle of PVC Primer
(1) Small bottle of PVC cement

HARDWARE AISLE

***You can use galvanized, zinc coated, stainless steel, etc. hardware. Stainless Steel is probably the best option but is also the most expensive. But if you plan on taking your rig into the saltwater, I would definitely recommend stainless steel! If you are a freshwater only float tuber, the cheapest hardware option should work fine***

(3) 1/4” x 3” Carriage bolts
(3) 1/4” x 1 1/4” Carriage bolts
(4) 1/4" x 2" eyelets
(4) 1/2” Trigger Snaps (clips)
(10) 1/4" Acorn Nuts
*no washers required*

Miscellaneous (optional)
(1) Electrical tape
(1) Thread Locker (e.g. Loctite)


PREP

So you’ve gathered all of your materials and are now ready to start the prep work! Below is a comprehensive list of all of the bits and pieces that you will need to cut and prime in preparation for this project. Doing this up front will make following the assembly instructions easier and will also make the entire build much quicker!

1/2” PVC pipe

4 @ 21 1/2”
6 @ 5 1/2”
16 @ 1 1/4”
3 @ 1 3/8
2 @ 18” ***FOR SUPER FAT CAT OWNERS, MAKE THESE PIECES 18 3/4”***

1” PVC pipe

3 @ 1 1/2”

1 1/2” PVC pipe

1 @ 2”
1 @ 3” ***FOR SUPER FAT CAT OWNERS, MAKE THIS PIECE 4”***
1 @ 12”
45 degree miter pieces…
2 @ 13 1/2 FROM LONG POINT TO SHORT POINT! To clarify what that means, refer to the image below…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/25RodHoldertubespic.jpg

1” T

Cut the 2 legs at the top of the “T” so that they protrude only about 1/4” from the central portion of the “T”. For clarification, refer to the image below…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/4CutReducingT.jpg


After you have made all of your cuts, a compilation of all of your PVC materials and hardware should look like these images…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/5PartSheetandCode.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/55Hardwarepartsandcodes.jpg

Note where it says “…PART CODE SHEET”. As you can see in the images, ALL of the parts correspond with a letter. These letters will be used in the step by step instructions to identify the pieces required for that particular step.

Below is a comprehensive list as to the specific pieces that each letter corresponds to:

A. 1/2” PVC cut to 21 1/2”
B. 1/2” PVC cut to 18” (18 3/4” for Super Fat Cat owners)
C. 1/2” PVC cut to 5 1/2”
D. 1/2” PVC cut to 1 1/4”
E. 1” PVC cut to 1 1/2”
F. Cut down 1” T connector
G. 1 1/2” to 1” reducing T connector
H. 1” to 1/2” reducing elbow
I. 1 1/2” End Cap
J. 1 1/2” PVC cut to 2”
K. 1 1/2” PVC cut to 3” (4” for Super Fat Cat owners)
L. 1/2 PVC Elbows
M. 1/2” PVC T connectors
N. 1/2” Screw together connectors
O. 1 1/2” PVC mitered rod holders (45 degree angle cut to 13 1/2” from long point to short point)
P. 1 1/2” PVC square cut rod holder (cut to 12”)
Q. 1/2” PVC cut to 1 3/8”
R. 1/2” Trigger Snaps (clips)
S. 1 1/4” Eyebolts
T. 1/4” Acorn nuts
U. 1 1/4” Carriage bolts
V. 3” Carriage bolts

And we are ALMOST ready to build. While you have your parts neatly laid out and prior to building anything, I recommend that you prime the ends of all of your pipe pieces and the insides of all of your connectors. Some people will skip priming their PVC but I do not recommend doing so! I’ve ran the experiment and unprimed connections will pull apart in due time. Plus, priming is really easy so you may as well just do it! Use the purple primer that you bought at the hardware store…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/55purpleprimer.jpg

…and put a ring of primer no less than 1/2” wide as shown in the images below…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/6primeroutsidepipe.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/7Primerinsideelbow.jpg

Doing this all in one shot will save you a heap of time during the build! And with that…LET’S GET BUILDING!!!

STEP 1 – THE SIDE FRAMES

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/8Step1.jpg

Gather your materials and your PVC cement and lay everything out as shown in the image above. YOU WILL REPEAT THIS STEP TWICE AS THERE ARE TWO SIDE FRAMES IN THIS BUILD!

Begin by grabbing the “C”’s and the elbows (L’s) and T connectors (M’s) that they will fit into.

Apply a generous amount of PVC cement BOTH to the outside of “C” and to the insides of the connectors ONLY where “C” will fit in. Push these pieces firmly together MAKING SURE THAT EVERYTHING STAYS SQUARE AS SO…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/10TASSEMBLY.jpg

After assembling the 3 vertical pieces, you can now proceed with gluing the remaining elements of Step 1 together. With the small connecting pieces (“D”’s), be sure that plenty of the pipe is shared among the 2 connecting pieces that it fits into. Also, once again, BE SURE THAT EVERYTHING STAYS SQUARE LIKE SO…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/11FrameAssembly.jpg

When you finish one side, then start the other! You should end up with two perfect replicas as so…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/12SideFrames.jpg

On to step 2…

STEP 2 – Back Braces

The back braces are an absolutely critical element to this build. They stabilize the entire frame so that when you go to put a rod in it or grab a tool, it is absolutely RIGID! They also provide an additional point of attachment for things like net holders and camera mounts.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/13BackBracesstep2.jpg

We are now building a LEFT AND A RIGHT back brace. It is critical that you do so as THESE TWO BRACES ARE MIRROR IMAGES OF EACH OTHER AND NOT EXACT REPLICAS!! I THOROUGHLY RECOMMEND READING THROUGH THIS ENTIRE STEP BEFORE BEGINNING YOUR BUILD OF THE BACK BRACES!!! This is a simple step but it is critical that you establish a left and right side and that all pieces remain square to each other and to the 2 side frames you just built!

Begin by gluing the elbows (L) and T Connectors (M) to the cross braces (B). The elbows need to be offset from the T connectors by exactly 90 degrees as so…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/1490degreeoffset.jpg

After doing this on BOTH the left and right side, begin gluing the remaining pieces (except for the side panels you previously built…those are next!) in Step 2 together. After you have everything assembled, it should look like this…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/15Backbracescomplete.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/16Backbracestogether.jpg

Now grab those two side panels and position them so that they are ready to be secured to the back braces. Secure 2 “D”’s in the open ends of the elbows (L) on the back braces. Now slide the entire back brace into position, gluing the 2 D’s you just installed on the back braces into the open vertical T connectors on the side panels you built. BE SURE THAT EVERYTHING IS SQUARE!!!! Here is what you should end up with…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/17Backbracesandsidepanels.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/18Backbracesandsidepanels2.jpg

And as you can see, YOU’RE GETTING THERE!!! Just a few more steps away from fishing bliss!

STEP 3 – The Back Linkage

The Back Linkage is the final critical structural component of the boat. It firmly locks all of the pieces together forming an integrated unit that could stand alone, even if there were no tube at all! Having a rigid stand-alone frame on your boat is the most robust system that you are going to find. It’s the reason why the camera footage you see taken from my tube is so stable. I also use my back linkage as a net holder and thus the vertical tube. You could also use the vertical tube as an additional rod holder. Or, if you don’t like the vertical tube at all, you can simply alleviate it! But linking the two back braces with the Back Linkage is critical to having the most robust connection possible.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/19BackLinkage.jpg

You can begin assembling the Back Linkage wherever you wish. The only requirement is that the J, G, K, and I pieces be perfectly perpendicular to the H, E, F,E,H pieces as so…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/20Perpendicularbacklinkage.jpg

Other than that, assembly is pretty cut and dry! After you are done assembling, DRILL AT LEAST A 1/4” SIZE DRAIN HOLE IN THE END CAP SO THAT WATER CAN ESCAPE IF ANY HAPPENS TO GET IN THERE! If you skip this step, look forward to getting splashed when you go to put your net back behind you!! This is what the Back Linkage should look like up to this point…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/21BackLinkage.jpg

If you want to make this as secure as possible, wrap the connections in electrical tape, ESPECIALLY, the connections in your cut down T connector (F). This T connector has minimal connection and some solid electrical tape wrapping can do wonders for making this a stronger connection.

You now need to insert the 2 exposed “D” pieces (the purple pieces above) into the threaded pieces of the back braces you built previously. This may take a bit of “coaxing” so if it does, no worries! For those that care, the ease of fit will depend on how good your cut was on the 1” T connector in the first phase of this build. After you glue the back linkage to the back braces in place, here is what you should have…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/22BackLinkageandbraces.jpg

You now have what looks like a frame right?!? GREAT! Let’s move on to now attach this frame to the boat so that everything becomes a single, integrated unit.


Step 4 – The attachment hardware

Outcast thought ahead and realized that us anglers may want to do ridiculous additions like this one to our float tubes! With their forward thinking abilities, Outcast supplied all of their float tubes with 2 D-rings on the outside of each of their pockets. These will be our attachment points for our frame…

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/23DRingpic.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/24Step4pic.jpg

Begin by fully inflating your float tube, seat cushions and all! Following inflation, place the frame that you just built over your boat. Sit in your float tube and lean a bit back in your seat. Then pull the frame forward so that it is just touching the back of your seat. Once the frame is in place, mark the position of all 4 d-rings on the side panels.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/25Dringmarkingpic.jpg

Remove the frame from the boat and remove the side panels from the frame. Locate where you marked the D-rings on the side panels and drill a 1/4” hole PERFECTLY VERTICAL to the side panel.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/26verticalhole.jpg

Next, take your eyebolts and clamp them into a vice or hand clamp. What you are trying to do is slightly open up the eyebolts so that you can loop it through your trigger clips.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/27openeyebolts.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/28openeyeboltslooped.jpg

Once you have looped the eye bolt through the trigger clip, use your hammer to close the eyebolt back up. Do this for all 4 eyebolts and trigger clips.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/29closedontriggers.jpg

***You can skip this step by using a split ring or a ring from a key chain to link the trigger clip to the eyebolt. The only problem with doing this is that your frame will have more backwards and forwards play to it.***

Now take the eyebolt and trigger clip assemblies you just made and insert them through the holes you drilled in the side panels so that the ring portion of the eyebolt IS FACING DOWN! Use an acorn nut on the top of all 4 assemblies and STEP 4 IS A WRAP!



COMPLETING STEP 4 COMPLETES THE STRUCTURAL PART OF THE BUILD!!!!! WOOOHOOOO! This frame that you have now built is the basis for everything I have added onto my tube. It serves as the foundation for mounting cameras, sonar, rods, pliers, nets, you name it! The possibilities are endless! I am going to go on to explain how I have my rod holders mounted but know that THEY DO NOT HAVE TO BE MOUNTED THIS WAY!!! You could stop here and come up with any configuration you want and that would be GREAT!!! But for those that want to trudge on, I’ll show you how to mount the rod holders.

STEP 5 – Rod holders

I am a guy who loves to have a lot of rod holders on board. I feel very strongly that it is of great benefit to you to have a ton of different places to stash a rod quickly so that it is both secure AND out of the way! That being said, I added three rod holders on my frame that I use to not only hold my fishing rods, but I’ll also stash my pliers in there, I’ll throw my net in one from time to time, and the list goes on! These little tubes are used for a variety of purposes and are super handy dandy to have on board.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/30Step5RodHolders.jpg

The arrangement of your rod holders is entirely up to you. I like having my 3 rod holders arranged like a fan. The rod holder leaning forward is a great place to set down a rod that has a fish on while you wind in your other lines and/or the anchor. The backwards leaning tube is where I typically throw an extra rod. And the center, vertical tube is often where I keep my pliers.

The first step is to lay the side panel that you are going to mount your rod holders onto down on your workbench (or in my case, the kitchen counter!) in a spot adjacent to a wall. Arrange your rod holders in whatever “array” you see fit and make sure that the bottom of the side panel and the bottom of each of the rod holders are all touching the wall. This will keep everything square and nicely lined up.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/31arraypic.jpg

Once you are satisfied with the arrangement, mark the rod holder tube where it crosses the top and bottom crossmembers on the side panel. Also mark the crossmembers on the side panel where they hit the rod holder.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/32tubemarkingpic.jpg

Label the rod holders and the side panel so that you know which rod holder corresponds with each position. Drill THE BOTTOM HOLE ONLY on the rod holder tube with the 1/4” drill bit. When you’ve done this to all three rod holders, reposition them back on the frame. When everything is lined up, use the 1/4” holes you just drilled in the rod holder tubes as guides to drill 1/4” holes in the side panel as well.

Once the bottom tube on the side panel is drilled, grab the 3” carriage bolts and begin to push them into the rod holder tube. Use the 1 3/8” 1/2” PVC pipe as spacers on the inside of the rod holder tube so that you can tighten down the bolt without crushing the tube.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/33Spacerpic.jpg

Once the bolt is through the rod holder tube it can be mounted onto the bottom rung of the frame. Secure it onto the frame with an acorn nut. Do not overtighten! Even with the spacer in place it is possible to crack the plastic if you go all Heman on it!!

To attach the top of the rod holder, realign the marks you made on top tube of the side panel and on the rod holder tube. When in position, drill a 5/16” hole through both the rod holder and the top tube of the side panel. Do this for all three rod holders.

To prevent an upper carriage bolt from blocking the rod holder, you have to enlarge the outer hole so that the head of the carriage bolt can pass through it. Do this by using your 5/8” drill bit, being sure to ONLY drill through the outermost hole on your rod holder!

After this hole has been drilled, you now have to finagle the 1 1/4” carriage bolt into position. This is indeed tricky and can become a complete pain in the neck. One great way to get the bolt through is by using a “pull string”. Take a short piece of fishing line and tie it to the end of the threads on the carriage bolt. On the opposite side of the line, clamp on a small sinker. Drop the sinker through all of the holes and pull the bolt through. Works like a charm!!!

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/34Pullstring.jpg

Once you have the carriage bolt in position, secure it to the frame with an acorn nut and BOOM…you’ve got rod holders!!!!

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/345Rodholders.jpg


CUSTOMIZATION

One of the biggest benefits of this system is that it can be quickly and easily customized for virtually anything. Without the rigid frame, I could kiss any steadiness to my videos goodbye!! I’ve figured out a quick and easy way of mounting my sonar. And I’ve got a bundle of other ideas for this thing that would be impossible to even consider without it. I will do detailed write-ups soon on how exactly I have my sonar and camera mounted as this thread is already long enough! But in the meanwhile here are a few detailed pics of the rig on my Super Fat Cat that should clue the tinkerers in on exactly how I have some of the nitty gritty custom stuff set up!!

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/35sonar.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/36sonarandducer.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/37Ducer.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/38Camera.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/39CameraAttach.jpg

Some of you may want to paint your frame, I know that I did! Painting your frame is quick and easy but I do have a few tips for you. 1) I use the krylon fusion paint. It is specifically designed for painting plastic meaning that it sticks really well with minimal crinkling or running. 2) When you paint your setup, do it with the frame COMPLETELY put together! This will prevent you from painting the threads on the screw together adapter pieces. If you were to paint them it would make assembly a complete pain in the butt! 3) Some of the paint WILL rub off on your canvas. You can see it if you look really close in the pics above. I don’t mind but some people are pretty particular about things!!


TIME TO GO FISH…

So looky what we have here…Father Super Fat Cat and son, Fish Cat 4 Deluxe!!!

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/40Fatherandson.jpg

And I think my favorite part about this entire thing is that despite this being a significant component of your ride, by unscrewing the threaded connectors the entire thing completely collapses to become a compact pile of plastic that easily fits inside of your boat bag!

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/41bitsandpieces.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/42pileofplastic.jpg

In fact, I can fit my Super Fat Cat, 2 caddis rod holders, an anchor, 2 sets of waders, my wader boots, fins, my pump, backpack straps, repair kit PLUS THIS ENTIRE SYSTEM ALL INTO MY FLOAT TUBE BAG!!!

BEFORE
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/43Before.jpg

AFTER!!
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/435After.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/44After.jpg

I’ve received a ton of FANTASTIC emails asking a variety of questions, many of which expressed a curiosity in my extravagant rig! I hope that I’ve answered your questions but if not, feel free to ask anything and everything and I’ll do my best to give you my 2 cents. I truly can’t wait to see the creative things that you guys come up with using this system!!! If you do end up putting this together, I’d really love to see pics!!!!

As always, thanks a bundle for taking a read guys and looking forward to seeing you all out on the water!!! IT’S TIME TO GO FISHING!!!!!!! WOOOOOHOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[kirkboat]

you forgot to mention the the engenering degree in plumbing you will need and also i missed the plumbers butt crack in the pics...LOL....as aways great job....

[keepemlo]

Wow this is genius !!! Can't wait to get started am I missing pictures ?no finished product

[SokeyMcPot]

Cant wait to build that

[socal114]

:UDaMan::UDaMan::UDaMan:
"We're not worthy, we're not worthy...!!!"

Wow...just wow!

[exfactor]

very nice writeup! I think your ready for a real boat now LOL. Oh, wheres the motor mount?

[Trout Doctor]

I drink too much to ever be able to do this right. However, I also drink enough to try anyway. Awesome.

[Spaulding]

You got skill, man..Been seeing more and more float tubers on Big Bear Lake recently.

[christainmetalhead909]

wow awesome im going to try this asap!!!!!!!!!!!

[sapdawg11]

you forgot to mention the the engenering degree in plumbing you will need and also i missed the plumbers butt crack in the pics...LOL....as aways great job....

hahaha! I'll be sure to include more crackage in the next one!!! Thanks Kirk!!!


Wow this is genius !!! Can't wait to get started am I missing pictures ?no finished product

Hi K,

My bad! With the thread already reaching epic proportions I thought that the pics on the tube would suffice. But of course I should have taken some stand alone pics of the rig! Here are a few cell phone pics with my dog for scale...She's quite the ham in front of the camera!!

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/2011-04-03_11-15-21_179.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/2011-04-03_11-15-11_887.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/sapdawg11/2011-04-03_11-15-50_992.jpg


Cant wait to build that

Go for it!! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.


:UDaMan::UDaMan::UDaMan:
"We're not worthy, we're not worthy...!!!"

Wow...just wow!

HAHA! Thanks Jeff. I'm pretty sure you're out on the water right now and I'm extremely jealous. Looking forward to seeing footage of the slayage from the new gopro!


very nice writeup! I think your ready for a real boat now LOL. Oh, wheres the motor mount?

LOL! I've had my share of skiffs and am now a happy and proud member of the "I know a guy with a boat" club!! Thanks a bunch of the kind words. Much appreciated!


I drink too much to ever be able to do this right. However, I also drink enough to try anyway. Awesome.

Thanks for this...just too funny! Really enjoy reading your posts TD. Always makes for a good read with a bunch of good laughs mixed in. Send me a pm if you're ever headed out my way. It would be great to pull on some fish with ya! Let me know how the drunken PVC adventure goes!!


You got skill, man..Been seeing more and more float tubers on Big Bear Lake recently.

I lived in Big Bear for a few years and still consider that place a home away from home. Great to hear that the float tubers are working it. Thanks for the compliment!


wow awesome im going to try this asap!!!!!!!!!!!

Do it!!!! Let us know how it goes and post up some pics. Thanks for the kudos!!

Awesome responses guys. Thanks a TON!!!!

[NachoFish]

Aaron,

When you called and told me you were going to put this up..........well, I just never thought it was going to be Norm Abram (The Yankee Workshop) quality.

:Applause::Applause::Applause::Applause::Applause: :Applause:

Now I'm even more excited to get one!

D

[ThatKidCASH]

Thank you for convincing me to buy a tube for the days the Z7 can't be towed. Kudos!

[Bebop]

Aaron you have quality engineering my friend. Great thread this will make alot of float tubers happy and I might just do this without the camera. Although I have been working with PVC pipe and the primer is only used when you have pipe with constant presure. But on the other hand it doesnt hurt to use it. Red hot glue connects fast. once again Aaron my hats off to you.

[sapdawg11]

Aaron,

When you called and told me you were going to put this up..........well, I just never thought it was going to be Norm Abram (The Yankee Workshop) quality.

:Applause::Applause::Applause::Applause::Applause: :Applause:

Now I'm even more excited to get one!

D

HAHA! NORM!! I could never compare. Looking forward to showing you the ropes out there Donna!


Thank you for convincing me to buy a tube for the days the Z7 can't be towed. Kudos!

No problem man! And I see the avatar...you must play!!! I love paintball. I played on a pump team called the Blowfish for years. Too much fun. Still get out there every now and again. Completely off topic but here's a vid from a tourny we played in Phoenix many moons ago...that's me shouting, laughing and being obnoxious in general at the beginning...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tg8_qi5clbo

here's another from a tourny we played at SC Village...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3CyzIcz-PI&feature=fvst

I miss those days. Where do you play if ya don't mind me asking? I noticed your jersey and must say that Rockstar had a killer factory pump team in the last tournament I played in about a year or 2 ago.


Aaron you have quality engineering my friend. Great thread this will make alot of float tubers happy and I might just do this without the camera. Although I have been working with PVC pipe and the primer is only used when you have pipe with constant presure. But on the other hand it doesnt hurt to use it. Red hot glue connects fast. once again Aaron my hats off to you.

Would be GREAT to see what you come up with Bob! Thanks for the kind words. You getting out this week? Let me know!

[Troutman65]

The grass in your yard , is it fake ? Looks so green. Nice going on this do it yourself project to help others . Thanks for posting

[Piss on Myspace]

When you called and told me you were going to put this up..........well, I just never thought it was going to be Norm Abram (The Yankee Workshop) quality.


ahahahahhah and i thought i was the only one!!!

but thats some good 'ish right there...thanks for posting

[stocker]

love the ingenuity of your setup! i have the standard fish cat and i've given it a beating but it's still going strong!

[HBAR]

"that's me shouting, laughing and being obnoxious in general at the beginning..."

until you got all shot up:Death2Above::Guns::Explode::Neener Neener::Neener Neener:

when we goin :Fishing Hole::Titanic:

[Yoyo]

Thank you so much for the detailed instructions. I'm actually headed out this afternoon to go get the materials. Just a couple quick questions. What do you do when you want to keep something like a jacket dry in case it gets cold? First time out I just put my jacket in the back and as you know, it gets wet. Didn't really think that one through, not too smart haha. Also, how rugged is that transponder(sp?) for your fishfinder? seems like it would get quite beat up and dragged around on the ground? Thanks again for posting such great manual I'm sure it took quite some time. I'll definately post up a picture of the finished product when it's done.
Jon

[ThatKidCASH]

Sorry to clutter the thread guys.

Sweet dude! Yeah, I played on Los Angeles Faction(D3, D2, D1), Rockstar Factory(D2), Rockstar Wrecking Crew(D3), Critical(D2), and now am happily playing on the Los Angeles Hitmen(D2) for X-Ball and 7Man. We usually practice at the "Ranch" in Whittier, as well as SC Village, but we'll travel as far as Camp Pendleton and Warped in Castaic. All depends what team(s) we are practicing.

[reservoir dog]

Great post sapdawg and very informative. Nice of you to share tips on how to PIMP YOUR RIDE! This is what a forum should be about.

[sapdawg11]

Just awesome guys! Really great to hear all of the amazing compliments and even better to hear that some of you are running to the hardware store to give this a whirl!! Can't wait to see what you all come up with.


The grass in your yard , is it fake ? Looks so green. Nice going on this do it yourself project to help others . Thanks for posting

Yeah, its fake. We have 2 large dogs and they quickly turned my beautifully manicured grass into a dust bowl. Fake grass was the only option and we really like it.

Still looking forward to shaking hands with the king of the Big Bad Reds!!!


ahahahahhah and i thought i was the only one!!!

but thats some good 'ish right there...thanks for posting

Thanks man!!


love the ingenuity of your setup! i have the standard fish cat and i've given it a beating but it's still going strong!

Gotta love Outcast. That boat should last you longer than you want it to!


"that's me shouting, laughing and being obnoxious in general at the beginning..."

until you got all shot up:Death2Above::Guns::Explode::Neener Neener::Neener Neener:

when we goin :Fishing Hole::Titanic:

No no no my friend! That was me behind the trigger handing out bruises!! I'm ready to get out there when you are!!


Thank you so much for the detailed instructions. I'm actually headed out this afternoon to go get the materials. Just a couple quick questions. What do you do when you want to keep something like a jacket dry in case it gets cold? First time out I just put my jacket in the back and as you know, it gets wet. Didn't really think that one through, not too smart haha. Also, how rugged is that transponder(sp?) for your fishfinder? seems like it would get quite beat up and dragged around on the ground? Thanks again for posting such great manual I'm sure it took quite some time. I'll definately post up a picture of the finished product when it's done.
Jon

Jon, this is an awesome comment. Much appreciated!

You have a few options with your jacket: a) wear it, b) stash it in a seat back pocket (this comes standard with the Super Fat Cat and Prowler, you can buy it as an add-on to the FC4). This is an ok option as water still does get into that pocket from time to time. or c) put it in a dry bag and put it in the storage area behind your seat.

The transponder has held up great. You just have to mind it when you are landing your boat. Just know it's there and try not to drag it around too much. And as an added thing...I buy ALL of my fishing electronics through West Marine. I ALWAYS buy the extended warranty. It's cheap and they will replace your equipment NO QUESTIONS ASKED! If something does happen, you just bring it in and grab your new sonar. It's truly that easy.

Looking forward to seeing your build!!!


Sorry to clutter the thread guys.

Sweet dude! Yeah, I played on Los Angeles Faction(D3, D2, D1), Rockstar Factory(D2), Rockstar Wrecking Crew(D3), Critical(D2), and now am happily playing on the Los Angeles Hitmen(D2) for X-Ball and 7Man. We usually practice at the "Ranch" in Whittier, as well as SC Village, but we'll travel as far as Camp Pendleton and Warped in Castaic. All depends what team(s) we are practicing.

Awesome man, tell Sonny over there with the Hitmen that the Blowfish send a Hello!


Great post sapdawg and very informative. Nice of you to share tips on how to PIMP YOUR RIDE! This is what a forum should be about.

Thanks man! Much appreciated.


Looking forward to the pics guys! THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ThatKidCASH]

I definitely will!

[REZ]

I havent logged on in a while but this post is awesome...good job on the step by step..Ive had my fishcat for over 6 years and Id have to say this is the best step by step for additions..very kewl!

Rob

[evosamurai]

anyone have any specs for the caddis nevada??

[Chasing Blues]

I know this is awhile back, but like The Mona Lisa, some things are timeless! Thanks for this. I got some great ideas. You rock!

[sapdawg11]

I saw this bumped to the top while I was in the Sierra and never got a chance to say THANKS!!!!

I also have some fantastic news...as was hoped for, the initial idea was revamped and revised into what the creator is allowing me to call "Rod Rack 2.0". Its a more compact frame with virtually the same versitility. Full details and review coming soon but to offer slightly more of a teaser in the meanwhile...the mystery creator of Rod Rack 2.0 is none other than float tube guru Kirkboat, and with that guy's OCD about getting things perfect, you gotta know this rack is fantastic. And to prove it, I've already made the switch!! A big thanks to Kirk for putting the time and thought into this. You guys are going to love it. Keep posted!!!!

[HookedUptuber]

Looking forward to that. I've seen that rod rack up close and personal. I love my current set up but def like the slick design of the 2.0 design. Would def be looking forward to seeing how it's done looking to out fit the tube that has more rod holders but more compact and with a quicker set up.

[HEMAN]

any sneak peaks of pictures at least of the 2.0 version?

[LGHT]

If it's the one i'm thinking about where it's a single tube with holes I think there was some pics posted a while back.

[sapdawg11]

There are a few pics around from people that have been lucky enough to get their hands on this set up. If you look at the video I just posted, you can get a few distant glimpses of mine. The idea has evolved and now incorporates some pretty killer features that make this a really efficient system, in terms of features, space required and set up time. And the full details will be coming as soon as I can find the time to write a review that does this thing justice. You guys are no doubt going to love it.

[HookedUptuber]

Write up and specs for the fish cat 4 as well please :D

[Rooster]

Sapdawg , I never been on a tube or have one. But can't wait to see the 2.0

Your write ups are outstanding!

[FKNChristopH]

Write up and specs for the fish cat 4 as well please :D

I have a fish cat 4 and these specs worked perfect..

*shakka*

[Stitch]

Hey fellas, I finally got around to building this awesome float tube rig this weekend and almost complete. Two Question for those who have already built it.
1) I'm trying to built a mount for my gopro can on the side of the rigging frame. Similar to whats displayed in the picture of this thread. What PVC material did you guys use and instructions?
2) I have a hummingbird fishing buddy 140c fish finder. I've seen a few tubers out on the lake with this mounted on their rig, it looks a lot more secure than my mounting strap that I bought on amazon. Can y'all enlighten me with instructions on how to get this mounted on the rigging please?

Thank you!

[FKNChristopH]

For the fishing buddy I used a 2" PVC piece that is drilled to fit straight up and down on the side of my rig and the top portion is just a reducer PVC from 3" to 2". Ill try to snap pics later.

For the go pro mount, I have a handlebar grip for my gopro that I just use on a 2' section of PVc that sticks up vertically from the original frame from a "T" joint. (you can see the shadow in some of my videos, YouTube.com fknchristoph)

Edit: check this video out, hopefully you can see what I'm talkin about..


http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xxetQNHT0OE

*shakkaa*

[Stitch]

Thanks bro. Ya, if you have time later and don't mind taking a few snap shot pictures of your fish finder mount And gopro mount, it would greatly be appreciated!

[FKNChristopH]

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a247/sebastian562/photo-8_zps8dfb64b1.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a247/sebastian562/photo-7_zps8a7bd665.jpg

Only had time to set up the rear portion. hope you get the idea.. I just mount the go pro with the handle bar mount to the top and point it in the direction i want it to go.

*shakka*

[jeepnkal]

I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to create this thread. Its much appreciated.

[keepemlo]

Ok guys ,,riddle me this ,I'm trying to mod and old trolling motor to fit my float tube ,any ideas?

[seal]

Ok guys ,,riddle me this ,I'm trying to mod and old trolling motor to fit my float tube ,any ideas?

You know of course if you put a motor on it you have to register it don't you? Anytime you put a motor on a craft, any craft, you are supposed to register it.

[socal114]

Ok guys ,,riddle me this ,I'm trying to mod and old trolling motor to fit my float tube ,any ideas?
http://www.bwsports.com/FloatPower.htm

[Steelhawk]

Does my account need some setting change or are all the pictures missing from this thread?

[Socal Bassman]

Does my account need some setting change or are all the pictures missing from this thread?
All the pics are missing because of photobucket's stupidity

[Ornery Bob]

It's hard to say without being able to see the old pictures, but I'd hazard a guess that more people are using electronics on float tubes now than they were back in 2011 when this thread started. The Float Tube Navy has sonar!

I suppose people consider rod holders to be "mods" because they're usually DIY affairs. I've made a few of my own (I even have a video of how to make one here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDFRQ_ibd18

But nowadays I use a commercially made Castmate Systems rod holder because, frankly, I think it's much better than a heavy and bulky pipe based holder. It's also very flexible in how you configure it. If you want to reconfigure a pipe based holder, it usually means making a new one from scratch. I don't know if you consider it a "mod" but here's my review of the Castmate Systems Rod Holder: https://youtu.be/7wrm0lgBiRE

Anyway, here's a pic of my current ride, complete with an iPad running the Raymarine Wifish downvision sonar and the Navionics GPS Navigation apps.

50929

And here's the video that goes with it: https://youtu.be/3Ms5x556lC8

This great sport just keeps getting better!

[Fourtogo]

Don’t see any pictures ?