Flourocarbon

[TopwaterBassin]

I know, I know, there have been a lot of discussions and topics on Floro, but here is mine. So, Floro is a smaller diameter line, and has the closest refraction to water as possible, so far. It is my understanding that Floro is less abrasion resistant than mono, but is better in certain situations, and techniques such as finesse fishing, and some even say for crankbaits since Floro sinks and can get the lure deeper. I am looking into using Floro as a leader material only to start, and go from there. Looking for opinions on use as a leader material, Using a swivel, or direct line tie (what knot), or if you are spooling up with it. If you are spooling up, are you using a heavier line since it has a smaller diameter, and is equivelant to a lighter Mono line. I have been using Mono for years, and will still continue to use Mono for topwater, so in that area, Floro is not an option for me. Just looking for some input.

Practice C&R, keep em swimming.

[fisherman from long beach]

i use 8lb flor on my reels,im not to impressed with it.it twists up on me,on my other rod i use 12lb big game and no twist what so ever.im switching the floro to big game.imho

[sansou]

Topwaterbassin,

I believe most people will generally agree that fluoro is MORE abrasion resistant than mono, not less.

[GeordyBass]

I usually half and half my reels, mono then fluoro, or braid then fluoro. Fluoro to me is stiffer but more sensitive than mono. It also has less stretch and sinks faster too. Depending on what line you get, abrasion resistance varies. I use SeaGuar a lot and TripleFish too.... Both are great lines. Only line I'd advice you to stay away from is cheaper fluoro like Seaguar Red Label, Vicious, and some berkeley lines.... Blackwater is the best IMO, but wayyyy to expensive for me!

My fav mono/co polymer is Cuda and sometimes fluoroclear. Big Game works too....

good luck!

[TopwaterBassin]

Topwaterbassin,

I believe most people will generally agree that fluoro is MORE abrasion resistant than mono, not less.

sansou,
I have heard that a lot, but, I have done my own testing with Mono and Floro, and it seems to me that the Floro line gets damaged easier than the Mono. I did this test with 6# Trilene XL Mono, and 6# Seagur Floro, the Floro snapped much easier after applying tension. Just my experience.

[marc626]

Flo. is more abrasion resistant than mono. Blackwater is the best IMO with Seaguar 2nd, the refractive index is insane and it's damn strong. You can use a swivel. I'd use Spro swivels but that's for line twist issues. For braid tied to Flo. I'd use a Uni to Uni Connection or a Seaguar connection. But yeah of course the Flo. will get your bait down quicker and it will fall to the bottom more straight as opposed to angle w/ mono. Off topic but for salt Use ACTUAL leader material for shock(yellows/albs)

[BrandonFish]

I tie a jam knot or Palomar knot better then using a swivel (my opinion)

[GeordyBass]

Flo. is more abrasion resistant than mono. Blackwater is the best IMO with Seaguar 2nd, the refractive index is insane and it's damn strong. You can use a swivel. I'd use Spro swivels but that's for line twist issues. For braid tied to Flo. I'd use a Uni to Uni Connection or a Seaguar connection. But yeah of course the Flo. will get your bait down quicker and it will fall to the bottom more straight as opposed to angle w/ mono. Off topic but for salt Use ACTUAL leader material for shock(yellows/albs)
uni to uni and blood knots work well for braid to any line,,, and thats right on with the bait sinking faster and going straight down. Mono Bows with the current usually.

[Fire Ball]

I would just go with mono to a swivel, since you don't need to learn any new knots to join your main line to the leader. I would use heavier mono and then lighter fluoro, that way when you break it off, you will only beak off the fluoro part and keep your swivel and everything above, for example, a weight. I suggest just using fluoro for the whole thing instead of just as a leader, because of the low stretch and it would just be easier if you didn't have to tie on a leader every time. Go with good fluoro like Seaguar InvisX and you won't have any problems with it. I always seems to get some line twist and too much memory from the cheap fluoro, but it would probably be decent as a leader. Also, you could go with some good copoly like P-Line Fluoroclear and use that as your main line since I like it better than any mono and it is cheaper than fluoro.


Topwaterbassin,

I believe most people will generally agree that fluoro is MORE abrasion resistant than mono, not less.

I would agree that it is more abrasion resistant.

[sansou]

sansou,
I have heard that a lot, but, I have done my own testing with Mono and Floro, and it seems to me that the Floro line gets damaged easier than the Mono. I did this test with 6# Trilene XL Mono, and 6# Seagur Floro, the Floro snapped much easier after applying tension. Just my experience.

Fair enough. I can't say I play around with 6# fluoro all that much. However, from a salt fishing perspective, at the 15# and up, it's this farmer's opinion that fluoro is pretty good around rocks, sharp teeth and structure that would otherwise compromise mono.

[TopwaterBassin]

Alright, so is it safe to assume that you can spool with a heavier Floro, say 10-15# if you are used to spooling with 8-10# Mono, since the Floro is a smaller diameter, and it would be just as strong. By the way I am fishing all freshwater, LMB all the time. I stick with Mono for topwater.

[GeordyBass]

Alright, so is it safe to assume that you can spool with a heavier Floro, say 10-15# if you are used to spooling with 8-10# Mono, since the Floro is a smaller diameter, and it would be just as strong. By the way I am fishing all freshwater, LMB all the time. I stick with Mono for topwater.It is stronger. fluorocarbon is used preferably for freshwater.... It is excellent for dropshottin' and finesse, but I still use it for everything. My line sees bays (handles salt better too IMHO) and lakes.... It works well for topwater too... I use 15lb when there are boils, using kpns and other topwater lures.:Cool:

[Fire Ball]

Alright, so is it safe to assume that you can spool with a heavier Floro, say 10-15# if you are used to spooling with 8-10# Mono, since the Floro is a smaller diameter, and it would be just as strong. By the way I am fishing all freshwater, LMB all the time. I stick with Mono for topwater.

Definitely, if you want to do that. If you buy 15 lb fluoro and it is the same diameter as 12 lb mono, then you will still get 15 lb breaking strength from the fluoro. Some companies (Triple Fish and maybe others) rate their line's breaking strength higher or lower than it really is, so look around at diameters from different companies to make sure that you get what you are expecting with the line you choose.

[TopwaterBassin]

GeordeyBass, doesn't the weight of the line and the fact that it sinks effect the action of the topwater, a lot of people have stated this? I agree for Finesse fishing it is better from what I understand, just trying to get opinions and input from everyone.

[Fire Ball]

GeordeyBass, doesn't the weight of the line and the fact that it sinks effect the action of the topwater, a lot of people have stated this? I agree for Finesse fishing it is better from what I understand, just trying to get opinions and input from everyone.

It definitely effects it, unless you are working the lure really fast. I've even noticed copoly effecting topwater lures, if the copoly sinks faster than mono but slower than fluoro. It is especially hard to walk the dog if the line is making your lure ride nose down. Mono or braid are the best choices for topwater! Don't listen to Geordy, he is just a noob!! JK :ROFL:

[GeordyBass]

GeordeyBass, doesn't the weight of the line and the fact that it sinks effect the action of the topwater, a lot of people have stated this? I agree for Finesse fishing it is better from what I understand, just trying to get opinions and input from everyone.

It hasn't been a problem for me at all. I walk the dog, twitch it, jerk it, and the line sinking may help the action a little(but not much), as it lowers the slack. It's really personal preference and not really technique specific. It'll do the job the same as Mono, and finesse just a little better. Remember, better line = price increase.

I also like fluoro more, especially because it doesn't fray as easy and handles Saltwater very well. I easily get 10-14 trips on a spool of fluoro, whereas mono only got me 5 or so before having frays and increased memory to it.

This is certainly my opinion, as I use Mono/Fluoro/Co-Polymers all the time. All have their use for me, so I wouldn't ever stop using one type. My Personal favorite lines, as I said before; are Cuda, InvizX, and Blackwater, as well as Suffix lines(mono).

Preference is the Key brotha.:Wink:

[TopwaterBassin]

I agree that preference is the key, as I stated, I prefer Mono for all Topwater fishing and would never stray from Mono for topwater. I am just trying to figure out if the theory of Floro for Finesse is true. I have caught just as many LMB on Mono finesse fishing as my friend has using Floro. I have also noticed that he will break off easier in thick cover (maybe a bad spool), where I am able to muscle the fish out and not be concerened about break offs. Since I prefer casting into heavy cover, and have seen the outcome from both I am torn. I have also heard just the opposite from others as well. Just want to see if Floro will actually give you that edge since it is less visible in the water, and will not spook line shy fish. Everyone wants that edge when it comes to fishing.

[Socal Bassman]

Good quality fluoro is more abrasion resistant than mono. Some of the cheap stuff that I have tried is less abrasion resistant than mono, though. Seaguar Carbon Pro has never let me down. I tried the InvisX for a period of three months and was not impressed with it.

[calico killer kevin]

It is generally accepted that fluoro is more abrasion resistant than mono. Fluoro is stiffer, harder to handle, and less bouyant than monom but it lasts longer, is less visible, and more abrasion resistant.

Strength should not be detemined by the breaking strength labeled on the box, but rather by the strength:diameter ratio. If a line is rated 12lb, but is equivalent to 14lb test in diameter, than that defeats the purpose.

That said, I would not use fluoro rated stronger than my mainline. Reason being, if I were to snag, I would lose leader+mainline whereas I would just lose leader if it were equal or weaker.

[GeordyBass]

That said, I would not use fluoro rated stronger than my mainline. Reason being, if I were to snag, I would lose leader+mainline whereas I would just lose leader if it were equal or weaker.
x2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Socal Bassman]

I forgot to mention that mono is not completely out of my arsenal. For slow moving presentations like dropshotting, split shotting, Texas rigging, etc., I prefer fluoro. because I'm giving the fish more time to analyze my presentation. For faster moving baits like crankbaits and spinnerbaits, I prefer mono because IMO the fish are not really concerned about seeing your line. They are locked on to your bait and have less time to react.

[pwynn]

i am a big floro leader guy thats it.. i didnt like it as a whole spool. but i use it as a leader everytime. unless i am using 4 lb maxima then i dont need it.