braid newb

[tacklejunkie]

few questions..
How do I tie braid to my reel?

I will be using a Luna 253 for jigs, c-rigs, frogs and chatters (for now, yes I know it's a bit heavy but not in the mood for trout plugs so it's just sitting here) and want to try/was recommended to try/ read about trying some braid in several of these instances. Do I just tie the braid right to the line eye/swivel on these baits? What knot do I use?

Lastly, any recommendations as far as line brand, type and rating? How long does it last? How do I know when to change it?

Do I need some backing under it? Topshot for these applications?

Thanks for any help you guys can point me to.

[bsp]

I can help you out a bit TJ.

1: You can either wrap a strip of athletic tape on the spool or put on like 5 or 10yds of mono first so the braid has something to grasp onto. Otherwise you risk the chance of it slipping.

2: Tie straight for all of them and use the Palomar as BK said.

3: 50lb or 65lb in either Sufix, Izor, Power Pro, Daiwa ($$), or Toray ($$$$$). Power Pro, Sufix, and Izor are the ones I have used and they all work well. I like Sufix the best, then Izor, and finally Power Pro. One backlash and Power Pro is done. I haven't heard any complaints about the last two except price, so if you have the cash you might want to check them out. Sunline has braid as well, but I have never heard anything about them.

Braid should last you a year of heavy use. Theoretically it will last a life time, but you'll eventually need to re spool as it does get nicked and beat up a lot when you are fishing heavy cover. Change it once it starts becoming too unmanageable to cast (backlashes) or once it gets insanely beat up. Generally you can cut off like 10ft of it and you will be good to go again. Some guys change it when as soon as it gets faded, but that isn't always necessary. That's just the dye coming off, and doesn't directly affect performance. It does signal that your line is old, so it is good time to check if you need respooling.

If you fish saltwater, be sure to rinse the braid after every trip so salt doesn't accumulate.

No need for a topshot. Just go with straight braid since you are going for a reaction strike in all the applications but the C-rig, and then you already have a leader. I am assuming that you are flipping the jig if you are using braid. If not, just go with fluorocarbon. It's abrasion resistant and braid doesn't offer that much more sensitivity than fluoro if you are using high end gear (and you are).

I agree with BK on the Fireline Crystal. Stay FAR away from that stuff. There are much better lines out there, and it's selling point fails. That stuff is far from invisible underwater, and for the price you can afford other, better braids.

[Skyler]

I wouldn't neccesarily recommend fireline crystal (The UV rays seem to get to it pretty quick). though it is very easy to see on the water, and it floats (topwater anyone?), it doesn't handle the same as the smoke-colored fireline, at least for spinning applications. Bear in mind the line will take a month of heavy fishing to break in, and you will have to wet your spool before the first cast, but once it's wet and broken in, it is SOOO slick. I've had my spool for the last 6 months, and it gets better every time I use it. My spool of crystal is still kicking, but it seems far more "dental flossy."

As for tying it to your spool, use a short section of thick mono and tie it uni-to-uni to the braid. then arbor knot or uni knot it to your spool, and reel it up. As for the topshot, i like to use a flouro topshot for most finesse applications, and for fishing jerkbaits. Uni-to-uni is the best way to splice braid to mono/flouro. If you are ripping frogs or jigs through the weeds and texas rigging large plastics, you can just tie off to the braid (good for ripping up snags). Again, the Uni knot seems to work the best. I use three passes instead of two when connecting terminal tackle, and have never had one break.

[That Dang Guy]

To be totally honest, I've never experienced spool slippage without tape. You just have to make sure the first few wraps are on ridicliously tight. Almost tight enough to break your line. When spectra first came out people there were rumors about having to spool spectra on wet, but that simply isn't true. BUT, the tape is a bit of extra insurance and won't hinder any performance.

In most of our bass applications, you won't need any backing at all. For my topwater swimbaits, i throw it on 65 power pro. I'm not quite happy with it. The results are okay, but the wax makes the line lay a bit akward. The wax does definitely help with abrasion resistance though.

I used to tie all kinds of knots for braid to topshot. The PR knot was one of my favorites for higher test line (>50lbs). I wasn't happy with the bimini-reverse albright knot that has been pushed for the last few years. The uni-to-uni was one of the slimmer knots, but still had issues passing through guides. I also experienced some slippage with a 6-8turn uni-to-uni. I'm confident that the spectra side slipped. Any more turns than 8 on the spectra side, I had issues with the knot cinching down properly.

I experimented with loop to loop stuff for my offshore applications and was quite happy with it. It was one of the smoothest, if not the smoothest transitions. So it was only natural I would play with it in the fresh. I recently made a loop to loop connection with 25lb yozuri to 60 hollow jerry brown for fishing my lunker punker. I'm pretty happy with it. If anything, i might go straight from a solid spectra splice into the hollow for a smoother transition. If anything could possibly happen i could revert back to L2L or uni on the water. Don't serve your knot or go with half hitches. Use a 8 turn nail knot tightened with dowels. It's freaking invincible after that. It's also slimmer. But this might be a bit heavy for your applications.


BTW. Although the only spectra I have used on a spinning reels was firelines, I hate spectra on spinning reels. I have a tendency to fish my baits with slack or loose line. This inevitably leads to wind knots and they are a pain to get rid of.

I've mainly used spectra in the 65lb range. My Trinidad 16 was filled over 2 years ago and it's still going strong. It's probably down to 2/3 capacity since the PR knot and bimini-albright tends to eat alot of line every time you tie it. I might consider changing it next year. I haven't washed it since it's been on there. I'm interested too see if there is any corrosion below. I'll let you know.

To answer your other question, a short top doesn't hurt as long as your confident with your knot.

That is all my experience with spectra. I don't have any experience in the stuff much lighter than 30lbs...minus the short foray i had with Fireline crystal.

[tacklejunkie]

Hmm.
If it lasts that long, might be worth it to buy some of the nicer stuff?
All the Daiwa braid on TW is sold out. Wonder if that's manageable line or not.
I guess that would be my main worry? Wouldn't want to put a full spool on, backlash and ruin it. I'm not against a "learning spool" of less expensive braid to start with.

Thanks for the input guys.

[PUDD MASTER BAITER]

Casey ,i use a mono leader ,and tie it with a double surgens knot, use about 4ft to 6ft, then tie the mono, to your reel to prevent slippage.i also always use mono for my leaders and use the same knot so i dont have to use a swivle. By the way bk.ive had the same crystal fire line, for over 3 years.i use the 20lb. Rated 8lb dia. On all my baitcasting, i get double the capcity.in case get lucky, and hook something big off the beach, jettys, and bays. Its also on all my spinning stuff, but the smaller sizes. Ive never had a problem what so ever. I make sure to rinse it off after any salt water trip.

[tacklejunkie]

VG used to use the black fireline stuff on his baitcaster. He left it at my house for a while. That stuff felt weird I remember but It's the only braid I ever played with. Kinda like dental floss almost :LOL:

I'll go see about a spool of braid at one of the shops soon. I guess I'll grab a 300yrd practice spool. Probably power pro (I'm scared) or Izor or Suffix.

I take it Spiderwire at walmart is out of the question. lol What is that stuff? Just braid?

[PUDD MASTER BAITER]

casey if you ever use braid for drop shotting ,or any worming you wont go back.you can feel every pebble.

[Skyler]

casey if you ever use braid for drop shotting ,or any worming you wont go back.you can feel every pebble.

I concur. It's a whole 'nother ballgame when you can feel the fish think about biting, lol..

[tacklejunkie]

I'm using a Cumara and Fluorocarbon for drop shot! I can already feel too much as it is. Lol.

Feels like a bite when my pencil DS sinker slips into or out of a small patch of grass as it is already. I can feel where to stop my dropshot just next to cover through the rod. I got my drop shot just about perfected by now. I think I'll keep that technique as it is. Where I'm having the trouble is the fiesty night bass with bigger baits.

Plus, I like when fish pull drag. It would defeat the purpose for me if I could lock my drag and pull in the feesh! Unless using a technique where such a thing is required.

Just looking to braid up my ninja/night bass casting rig for them heavier baits and big fishies. Also to help with hooksets on C-rigs and chatters over mono. I don't usually fish jigs as often as C-rigs so mainly gearing towards that with the chatter aspect thrown in. Big fat C-rigs and Chatters are a blast to fish! Once in a while I do bring th jig box along to a select few lakes that the fish will cooperate with them though. Frogs I don't think it matters much as long as I wait for them to pull it down and take it whole before I reel down and swing on them.

[bsp]

A practice spool is definitely a good idea. I used 30lb Power Pro as my first line for baitcasters and on the first cast got an enormous backlash. After that, I couldn't cast farther than where the backlash had beat up my line. The cast would be going perfectly and then the line just suddenly stopped coming off the spool. It then got completely unmanageable after I caught a few legal halibut. Once I put some pressure on the line with good size fish, It dug into itself so much that my casts were hitting 10yds with a LC max.

This is what led me to figure out that anything below 30lb for braid was pointless. With 50lb and up, you don't ever get it digging into itself to the point where you can't cast. If you have the money, spring for the Daiwa after your learner spool. It is supposed to be one of the best braids on the market, and it feels like it will perform very well.

Spiderwire would be a good learning spool. A few pros on the Elite Series use it, so it's not completely garbage like Fireline Crystal. It's just not that great either. Once you get comfortable with that, the high end braids should feel just like you are casting mono.

Braid will be perfect with what you want to do. Just be sure to practice in the day first so you aren't picking out a backlash at night.

[calico killer kevin]

TJ, do yourself a favor, get some 40 or 50lb Daiwa Samurai Braid, and never look back. It's thinner, stronger, casts better, ties better knots, and I have NEVER, NEVER had a breakoff on it. If anything it's good luck haha. I have NEVER had a backlash in which I had to pull out the scissors, I have NEVER pulled a hook, and I have NEVER gotten a dreaded wind knot.

I use 5 yards of a mono backing and I tie the braid to that. I don't get any of the slippage I did with PowerPro. I tied the PP directly to the spool using a polamar knot and after 6 months of use, it started to slip.

I can't comment on the logevity of the line, but I have used it for 3 months without any problems. I always use a 5-10ft topshot depending on the type of fishing I do unless I'm frogging over pure mats.

[tacklejunkie]

Now I'm thinking my Luna might be a little slow.
Those fish hit and slack is there and needs to come out quick.
"the big one" hit and knocked it so far forward I didn't feel anything until 3 cranks of the 7:1 reel. I may have never even got the hook set in time with a 5.1:1, nor taken up the slack from his charge after the hookset. :LOL:

I guess I can try it and see if it will work out with the Luna. I'll have to remember to crank like a mofo though.

That Daiwa line caught my eye right off the bat. I'll try something junky to start with though I guess so I can see what the comparison is once I'm confident I can cast it. Time for a 1/4oz casting plug training session..

[vanillagurilla]

power pro casey... thats what i use. 30lb.

[tacklejunkie]

Was that the black stuff on your reel?

[GeordyBass]

I personally don't care for Fireline Crystal Either.... I used it on my Daiwa Coastal and Backlashes were consistent and I wouldn't use it again, I have lost a KPN because of it wrapping around on the guide like usual.... Damn!!!! I'd personally prefer to use other lines like Izor or Powerpro too.... I don't use braid on my baitcasters either, it reduces castability and some sensitivity, but it would be fine for your applications anyhow.... Good luck!

[calico killer kevin]

I personally don't care for Fireline Crystal Either.... I used it on my Daiwa Coastal and Backlashes were consistent and I wouldn't use it again, I have lost a KPN because of it wrapping around on the guide like usual.... Damn!!!! I'd personally prefer to use other lines like Izor or Powerpro too.... I don't use braid on my baitcasters either, it reduces castability and some sensitivity, but it would be fine for your applications anyhow.... Good luck!
???Really???

I've been using braid for awhile now and of all the negatives they have, I have never experienced either of the two.

[vanillagurilla]

the black stuff was fireline but i took that off and use power pro. and Geordy if ur loosing sensitivity with braid.... idk what ur doing wrong. lol.

[That Dang Guy]

Braid increases your sensitivity by leaps and bounds. It's definitely possible to go too large and loose a bit, but odds are you're going down in diameter size....otherwise what's the point? I do hate flyling baits with short topshots.

I've never personally seen braid wrap around a lower guide on a baitcaster. I know some rods that use fuji's reverse their first guide to prevent it from looping around the guide, but those are on spinning reels.

I find that small birds nest are very easy to pull out of braid. But the closer you get to a "spool ending" birds nest they get much more difficult. I believe that it has to due with the low memory with braid. It doesn't have that much memory and won't expand outwards too much with smaller nests.

Casting distance? It should also increase as well. Odd results you're getting Geordy.

[tacklejunkie]

What do you do when you snag your 55lb braid from shore? :Embarrassed:

[That Dang Guy]

I've never really thought about it. Pull really hard and hope you don't loose 1/2 a spool of braid in one hit?

But seriously. Have you tried a bow and arrow release? If it's not completely driven in there, it'll help pop out alot of snags. I'd try that or moving down the shore and changing the angle to get it out that way. Lastly, I'd try a direct pull and hope the jig would pop out or the line breaks at the knot without loosing too much.

[bsp]

Moving down the shore while in free spool and then stopping periodically to tug helps a lot, and make sure you are pulling against the drag so your rod has no pressure on it. Also pull away from yourself so when it does pop free the hook doesn't sink into you... or your friends. Pulling hooks out of people is not fun at all.

[tacklejunkie]

Pull really hard and hope you don't loose 1/2 a spool of braid in one hit?
Sounds like me the other night :LOL: Ouch. Good thing I have 2-3 fills left.
Hey no backlashing though and casts like a dream. Nice stuff.

I did the bow and arrow and walked both ways on shore. She wouldn't come up. Found the only snag in the water on an unsnaggable bait by letting it sink to the bottom experimenting with retrieves. Direct pull didn't do it either and I Came close to losing a digit :Confused:

Didn't want to break a rod or a reel, so I cut it.

[tacklejunkie]

I guess I'll just use a section of 12lb mono leader. That should let me break it off and at least save the braid while still saving some of the no stretch qualities maybe? I'll give it a shot.

[vanillagurilla]

thats what i do. i use a 6-10foot tippet of mono. use an uni to uni knot. never had one break at the knot. also put a dot of superglue on the knot of the braid.

[kill_obet]

i use 40# suffix braid on my 253 with/15# halo....(suffix is awesome!! cast smoother than izor or p.p....)

[SOSO]

i use 40# suffix braid on my 253 with/15# halo....(suffix is awesome!! cast smoother than izor or p.p....)

Nice reel. :LOL:

[vanillagurilla]

check out what i found researching suffix braid. its a evaluation by an angler on a striper fishing forum. http://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/showthread.php?t=497830

[bassaholic90]

TJ, do yourself a favor, get some 40 or 50lb Daiwa Samurai Braid, and never look back. It's thinner, stronger, casts better, ties better knots, and I have NEVER, NEVER had a breakoff on it. If anything it's good luck haha. I have NEVER had a backlash in which I had to pull out the scissors, I have NEVER pulled a hook, and I have NEVER gotten a dreaded wind knot.

I use 5 yards of a mono backing and I tie the braid to that. I don't get any of the slippage I did with PowerPro. I tied the PP directly to the spool using a polamar knot and after 6 months of use, it started to slip.

I can't comment on the logevity of the line, but I have used it for 3 months without any problems. I always use a 5-10ft topshot depending on the type of fishing I do unless I'm frogging over pure mats.

samurai is the best stuff u can get in my opinon that is all i ever use

[tacklejunkie]

Yeah the Samurai does seem like nice stuff compared to other braid I've felt.

Does my knot look right to you guys? Then I just add a drop of glue?
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/tacklejunkie/unitouni.jpg

[That Dang Guy]

This a uni-to-uni? How many turns did you do on either side. I normally go 8 spectra and 6 mono/flouro. Decrease the amount of loops as you go up in diameter. Also, there shouldn't be any overlapping loops. They should be cleaning seated next to eachother. I'd retie.

If you're going to use a glue, use a flexible glue. Soft plastic glues work okay.

[tacklejunkie]

I think I managed to get all the coils lined up OK. The only overlap is the same as shown here (http://www.animatedknots.com/uniknot/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com) when the knot is complete. That one long one going the length of all the coils.

I guess I'll find out when I hook a fishy. :Razz: Seems right from what I can tell. I tried to keep everything wet while cinching it down too.
Maybe I'll try one more time and see if it comes out any different.

[vanillagurilla]

looks good bro just leave urself a little longer tag on the braid. i try to leave like 1/8th inch.

[That Dang Guy]

I'm not sure why your knot keeps that loop. When i tie mine, that loop comes tight to the other loops. I googled a video, it ends up looking the same way as my knot. Very clean loops seated next to eachother.

http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Tie-a-Double-Uni-Knot-64271747

[tacklejunkie]

Yeah I'll put 8 loops in the braid and leave a longer tag. I was wondering about that.

[tacklejunkie]

I see what I was doing.
I gotta keep the braid taught when I cinch the line down.
Dang the guy says it's easy but kinda complicated when using different lines. :LOL:

Thanks for the video holmes. My knot looks like dude's knot now. NEato.

[tacklejunkie]

Wow! Look at the difference! I used 6 turns with the mono 12lb and 8 turns with the braid.
I like to examine things with a camera like it's a microscope sometimes because it can see better than me!

Before/Wrong:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/tacklejunkie/unitouni.jpg

After/Correct:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/tacklejunkie/unitounicorrect.jpg

Thanks a million guys! These little things all add up to big fish! :Cool:
I suppose if I lightly singed the tip of the braid with a soldering iron or lighter without heating up the mono I could also prevent the braid knot slipping that way since it beads up at the end.

[vanillagurilla]

nice that helped me too i've been tying mine all wrong also!

[Skyler]

I suppose if I lightly singed the tip of the braid with a soldering iron or lighter without heating up the mono I could also prevent the braid knot slipping that way since it beads up at the end.

I actually do that to my topshots. I tuck the mono and braid mainlines in my fingers and melt the tag ends with a cigarette cherry. Works well. They never slip on me.

[Liteweight]

I'm a little late on this thread but I'm currently using 65# Power Pro on a 253 Luna for my swimmie set-up.
Because of the width of the reel there's some line to line friction when casting which cuts down on some distance, but since I'm throwing BIG swimbaits I don't think I lose that much distance.
Just my :My Two Cents:
LW

[That Dang Guy]

Glad i helped out.

I'm a freaking knot junky.

A few years ago we got into saltwater jigging off paddys and for rockfish. Try tying 65lb braid to 50/60lb fluorocarbon and every knot has it's own problems. The uni2uni was never strong enough and getting more than 4 turns seated correctly always gave me issues. Bimini-albright takes too much work and ALWAYS caught the guides when you casted. Which resulted in birdnest and/or lost jig. Seaguar knot was too bulky and didn't tie well with different line diameters. A PR knot took as long as the bimini-albright, but didn't have any of the problems associated with it. The problem is you need a tool to tie it and my bow string serving tool always gave me inconsistent pressure.

That's when i said F it and went to hollow spectra. I'm still trying to dial it in. I like the loop to loop splices and your ability to change it on the fly, but you really need to be careful when looping your cats pawl. So now i'm splicing fluorocarbon into hollowbraid and connecting it with an uni2uni to the solid braid. It passes the stationary object pulling test, but i still haven't pulled on a nice fish with it yet.

Theres a few newish knots out there that I want to mess around with too, but this post is too long as it is. :ROFL:

[HEMAN]

Glad i helped out.

I'm a freaking knot junky.

A few years ago we got into saltwater jigging off paddys and for rockfish. Try tying 65lb braid to 50/60lb fluorocarbon and every knot has it's own problems. The uni2uni was never strong enough and getting more than 4 turns seated correctly always gave me issues. Bimini-albright takes too much work and ALWAYS caught the guides when you casted. Which resulted in birdnest and/or lost jig. Seaguar knot was too bulky and didn't tie well with different line diameters. A PR knot took as long as the bimini-albright, but didn't have any of the problems associated with it. The problem is you need a tool to tie it and my bow string serving tool always gave me inconsistent pressure.

That's when i said F it and went to hollow spectra. I'm still trying to dial it in. I like the loop to loop splices and your ability to change it on the fly, but you really need to be careful when looping your cats pawl. So now i'm splicing fluorocarbon into hollowbraid and connecting it with an uni2uni to the solid braid. It passes the stationary object pulling test, but i still haven't pulled on a nice fish with it yet.

Theres a few newish knots out there that I want to mess around with too, but this post is too long as it is. :ROFL:

yeah it is.. sheesh!!! i got lost at uni2uni

[klocked]

After/Correct:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/tacklejunkie/unitounicorrect.jpg




There you go!!..... looks clean!!
couldn't have done it any better myself

[tacklejunkie]

Man I haven't hooked a fish on the new reel yet with the braid on it. lol
I usually hook a good one when I purchase new gear but not this time. The steez is gonna make me work for it. :LOL:

I've lost several nice baits to my Uni2Uni breaking by now. Most recently a gambler meano and a revenge bluegill chatter, amongst several jigs at fairmount to the trees. I think it mostly only breaks when I backlash it though because I'm trying to super launch a bait with practically no spool tension.

Still have yet to be able to test this knot with a fish. I guess I'll throw a Senko on the reaction steez setup just to break it in and feel the drag go. Still gotta mount this reel on a nicer reaction rod eventually too.

Hey do you guys wet the line when you cinch the knot? This seems to make the braid wax have more resistance and maybe be worse for the mono line than just cinching the knot dry against the braid using the wax?

[vanillagurilla]

wet the mono so it dosnt build heat when u sinch it. and the leader breaks on you more because when u ( or anyone who uses braid) get stuck and trys to pop it out or pull on it hard, ur putting all the stretch in your 10' of leader because braid has no give. so the weak point breaks. especialy if ur using that medium heavy rod still TJ. u need something with a fast or extra fast taper to take some of the shock.

[tacklejunkie]

wet the mono so it dosnt build heat when u sinch it. and the leader breaks on you more because when u ( or anyone who uses braid) get stuck and trys to pop it out or pull on it hard, ur putting all the stretch in your 10' of leader because braid has no give. so the weak point breaks. especialy if ur using that medium heavy rod still TJ. u need something with a fast or extra fast taper to take some of the shock.

I do wet the knot for now and always have because of heat friction. Just wondering on this braid, it seems like wetting the knot creates more friction because of the wax. (akin to gaining grip on a surfboard in the water with wax) It's easier to cinch the knot without wetting it. Seems like less harsh on the line too. I'm sure I'm supposed to wet it still but was just wondering.

I don't really pop the braid/mono connection. I use it mainly for shallow reactions, so it's not getting stuck much unless I fish the dam. The reason it breaks is from the backlash yo. It's my fault. I won't be able to trust the knot until I hook a fish on it, which I will be waiting to barely set the hook on so I don't bust him off.

If I go to extra fast taper, my hooks aren't gonna go in the fish on the baits I'm using without swinging extra hard. I need some backbone dude.
It's a spinnerbait rod designed for big hooks like this..

In fact,
I don't think there's really any reason for me to be using braid honestly. I never broke one of those fish off as far as line, just the bait broke.
Only reason I'm trying it is for hookset power, and I might go back because I gotta swing and crank no matter what. Half the time the fish hook themselves on this bait and the other half all you have to do is reel down first before setting because they pounced on it. I'm just sticking with it at least until I hook one or two fish and see how it feels. I'll probably go back anyways and just figure out a better way to get the hook set with mono.

[vanillagurilla]

the hooks will still penitrate cuz ur using braid. ur making up for the mono stretch buy using a soft tip rod. even special spinnerbait and crankbait rods have a special soft tip so you dont pull the hooks out. lots of people loose fish on braid because either they set the hook to hard or they rip the hooks out because the rod dosnt have enough give on hard pulls or head shakes.

[tacklejunkie]

Lol dude I know about crankbait rods how they don't pull hooks. You saw me land that halibut you yanked the hooks out of.

It's not a fast tip they are after. It's a parabolic rod, with a moderate taper. The whole rod absorbs the fish shaking. (or so I think I have come to understand)

With the spinnerbait rods (as far as I know), you have to boat the fish fast because they have the tip to penetrate huge 5/0 spinnerbait hooks. It' not so much about keeping the fish on the line because they crank them in like a swimbait fish before they lose it without letting the fish get the upper hand or slack. Also, those baits I'm using are kinda heavy/bulky and the fish throw them quick if you give them any slack. This is what I've seen in several videos and read on websites anyways. I'm not sure exactly how it's supposed to be done.

I'll just go back to mono. I don't think there's much reason for me to be using braid. All I have to do is make sure the slack is out when they hit to hook them. Sometimes they hit it so hard, they push it forward and all the sudden you don't feel anything at all. You have to wind down in that case before the set, which is where the 7:1 comes in. Otherwise your setting on slack and missing some hookset power, likely even with braid. I think that was my original problem..

I think I'm going to have to learn to wait until I feel their weight to set on them, even though it's a reaction bite and they hit hard and quick. I'll put some jelly and hope they hold on that extra half second. It's such a weird bite. Sometimes they hit and are hooked instantly, other times they hit and then there's nothing but slack, other times you didn't even feel them hit and just felt slack all together but they did. Then you reel down and find fish weight only to feel them spit it.

[vanillagurilla]

yeah but i probly had that hali bearly hooked and he was stuck to the bottom and my rod wasnt fast taper. ur were using the softer 6' rod also. and lighter line. wich streches more. idk about the braid situation but i just know i use it all the time and hardly loose fish when i get bit. but i generaly dont use it when i throw lures so idk about that part. i just use it when i need the sensitivity like ds or c-rig.

[tacklejunkie]

Hey how 'bout some ninja fishing kid? You busy?

Oh yeah the hali's love to do that "suction cup" trick. haha. You gotta pry them up careful holmes.
I think it was your first LC 110 hookup though so I won't hold it against you. haha that was totally your fish.