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calico killer kevin
01-03-2009, 12:52 AM
Can someone please explain the basics
of trout trolling to me please?

I don't quite understand how some one
can troll lures at say 25 feet.

I have tried trolling mirashads,
cd-3's, daiwa shads, and plain crawlers
for no success so far.

How do you troll with leadcore?

How do troll lake trolls?

Are downriggers needed?

The only success with trolling was this
week when I caught some macks while trolling
feathers around Kings Harbor.

Any knowledge will help necause I'm troling
retarted. Please go down into detail, as
much as you want me to know. I'm not
asking for secrets, but hey, if you throw
them out there, I'm not gonna stop you.
Anything will help.


Calico Killer Kevin

calico killer kevin
01-03-2009, 02:09 PM
ANYONE?
No?

smokinflies
01-03-2009, 06:19 PM
Maybe this will help:

A Complete Guide: Lake Trolling for Trout
by LuhrJensen

Trolling is a technique tailor-made for anglers with all degrees of expertise because it's easy, fun and it works! It's a great way to start a youngster out as line tangles and snarls are few and far between and there's always something happening. But, trolling's not just for kids. It's a fishing technique used by hundreds of thousands of anglers across the country every day because of its proven success. Put the deadly technique of trolling together with a high quality lake troll and you have a fish-catching combination that's unbeatable.!

The truth be known, luck is the least important factor in becoming a successful angler. The person who employs the techniques given in this report, who understands trout and their habits and is willing to experiment with different lures and techniques will consistently outfish those using other techniques on the same body of water. Knowing the water you plan to fish, plus knowledge of the feeding and habitat characteristics of the fish species you're after are key ingredients for productive angling.

Consistent results! That's the reward, day-in and day-out for the angler who employs trolling as his or her primary fishing technique. The reason is simple – an entire lake or reservoir can quickly and efficiently be prospected by trolling, and concentrations of fish can be pinpointed with minium effort.

Trolling requires a boat, a method of propulsion (motor or oars), rod and reel, blade string (troll) and a lure. The troll and lure are let out behind your moving boat, with the amount of line varying depending upon the size lure or troll you select and how deep you wish to fish. The forward speed of your boat will dictate just how fast or slow the troll or lure will run and also will control its depth. Once the troll and lure are in the water and working properly, you must then find the fish.

PROSPECTING A LAKE

Whether you're using a troll, small lure on lead core line or a lure-and-worm combination, you'll find trout favoring certain areas of a lake. It saves a lot of time and energy if you are aware of these areas BEFORE you get on the lake and know in advance just what to look for.

Most lakes stratify into three layers during late spring, staying that way until late fall. The middle layer of water, the thermocline, contains both a large amount of dissolved oxygen and forage fish. To be most effective, you should troll close to or in the thermocline. This will be from 15 to 50 feet down in most lakes.

STRUCTURE: All fish relate one way or another to structure, shelter or cover. They use it for protection from predators, to escape from direct sunlight, for feeding and, in some cases, for spawning. Deep water, docks or other man-made structure, overhanging trees, shade, underwater rocks, and cliff areas are all likely to attract and hold fish. Trout must have shelter, both from predators and from direct sunlight, so they always will be either next to or within easy reach of a shelter, cover or structure area.

FOOD SOURCES: Locate food sources in a given lake, and fish will be found nearby. Minnows, salamanders, crayfish, midges, surface insects, beetles and other such creatures make up a large part of a trout's diet. Watch carefully for surface activity such as a school of small baitfish jumping or for insect hatches. On a windy day, fish that part of the lake where surface food is being blown and concentrated. Try areas adjacent to inlet and outlet streams where food items will be prevalent, or next to grassy shorelines or near marshy, weedy areas where food is easily available. Overhanging trees or bushes harbor all sorts of insect life, and fish will be waiting below for morsels to drop into the water.

DROPOFFS: Fish relate to structure and one of the easiest to detect, due to obvious shoreline features, is a dropoff. Be on the lookout for steep banks and then troll close to shore, along these banks. A depth sounder (a small, portable unit is fine for locating dropoffs) like those made by Lowrance, is a fishing tool that will help you locate ledges, dropoffs, and underwater islands not apparent any other way. It will save you valuable fishing time in finding these hotspots and allow you to troll next to them accurately.

OXYGENATED WATER: Most lakes stratify into three layers during spring (see the diagram) and stay that way until late fall. The middle layer of water, the thermocline, contains both a large amount of dissolved oxygen and forage fish. Your trolling should be concentrated close to or in the thermocline for best results. It will be from 15 to 50 feet down in most lakes, depending on their size and depth. Fish also will regularly be found close to dropoffs, near inlets or outlet streams where highly oxygenated water is flowing, or in old river channels which contain residual water flows.

LAKE TROLLS

Because of their popularity, effectiveness and ease of use, Luhr Jensen makes a wide variety of trolls A complete listing can be found on the back page of this report. Trolls are especially effective in deep, murky waters or on overcast days. The basic difference between lake trolls is in the number and the shape of the blades, and the length of the shaft or cable.

The shape of a blade determines how fast it will rotate and the particular sound vibrations it will produce. A round or nearly round blade, such as the Colorado or Bear Valley, swings slow and wide from the shaft while narrow blades like the Willow Leaf spin fast and close to the shaft. Narrow bladed trolls are best suited for fast trolling as they have less water resistance.

Trolls appeal to several fish feeding instincts. In addition to producing flash and other visual attraction, a rotating blade gives off vibrations underwater that spell f-o-o-d to nearby fish.

A troll can be used in conjunction with just about any lure or bait, three of the most effective being a small spoon (Needlefish®, Super Duper®, Midge Wobbler or Hus-Lure), small plug (Hot Shot® or Kwikfish®) or a worm.

The troll consists of a rudder at the front end which prevents line twist, a series of free-swinging blades on a wire cable or shaft and a swivel to which you tie a leader. From the end of the troll, the leader should extend at least 12 inches back to the lure (many anglers prefer leaders of 12 to 18 inches, but they may range clear up to five or six feet). When trolled, the blades act as attractors, fish follow the flash and sound to the source, spot the trailing lure and go after it.

Larger and more blades should be used for deep trolling or murky water. Clear water or depths of 10 to 20 feet require fewer, smaller blades. Nickel finishes work best on bright days or in clear water, while Brass and Copper finishes produce better in murky, deep or brackish (tea-colored) water. Brass, 50/50 Brass-Nickel, or Copper finishes work well when skies are overcast.

TROLL EASE AND RUDDERS

If you are going to use lures or trolls that have a tendency to spin in the water, a rudder is an essential piece of trolling equipment. The rudder will keep blades tracking straight and prevent your line from twisting. Small rudders should be used whenever you have some concern about line twist.

Combining the rudder idea with the need to easily change weight on a sport fishing line has resulted in the Troll Ease, a wire-frame rudder with the added feature of hollow-core sinker attachment capabilities. It's one item a troller should have several of. Although simple, it eliminates a very big problem – how to change lead or add or subtract weight without constantly tying knots and cutting off pieces of line. By simply unsnapping a metal pin, you can easily add or subtract the lead you desire. It allows light spin tackle to effectively reach depths ordinarily attainable only with lead core line or by using a downrigger. An added bonus is that the Troll Ease also acts as a line-twist-preventing rudder.

USING A SNUBBER

Usually the strikes that come when trolling are vicious. If you are using a troll, or are fishing for species known to have delicate mouths, such as kokanee, a rubber snubber is one piece of equipment you'll be glad you have. A snubber is a length of surgical tubing with a coiled piece of heavy line inside and swivels attached to both ends. When a fish strikes, the snubber stretches out to help absorb the impact, and then retracts. Snubbers are attached between the troll and leader-to-lure to absorb the shock of hard strikes. They are available in light, medium or heavy-duty sizes, depending on the pound test leader you select.

TRICKS THAT TAKE TROUT

We've gone through much of the information that you'll need to become a successful troller. Here now are some techniques you can use to make trolling easier, more fun and even more productive.

1. TROLL SLOWLY: Big fish will not expend any more energy than necessary to catch a meal. Also, most lures will not perform correctly at fast speeds. The best advice is to troll S-L-O-W-L-Y, the slower the better. Many expert trollers, particularly when fishing for trout, refuse to use a motor because they feel it's just too fast. They use oars instead. However, if you must use a motor, make sure it will throttle down to a crawl, or, better yet, purchase a multi-speed electric motor or a one- or two-horse gas motor. You can use this for trolling and save the large one for power.

2. VARY YOUR SPEED: While slow is the password, this does not mean slow all the time. A lure running through the water at a constant speed, at a constant depth and giving off the same vibration pattern will not catch many fish . . . there's just nothing there to indicate an easy meal is available or that something is in trouble. Slowly, yes, but adjust your speed every few minutes to change the lure's speed and vibration pattern.

3. WORK IN "S" CURVES: Consistent trolling results require that you do everything possible to keep from running in a straight line. We recommend an "S" pattern because every time the troll and lure are on the inside swing of the boat, they will drop deeper and slow down. On an outside turn, they will speed up and rise. With each turn, you will impart a different action to the troll and trailing lure, signaling MEAL TIME to nearby fish.

IF ALL ELSE FAILS

Here are a few final tricks that should help you outwit trout when everything else you've tried has failed. How many times have you watched a fish follow a lure right up to your boat, just to turn and swim away at the last moment? Chances are that fish had been following your lure for some distance, but the action of the lure or troll didn't indicate it was an easy meal and therefore didn't entice a strike.

Sometimes, in addition to trolling "S" curve patterns, a little more is needed. For example, try a sharp jerk or two every few minutes, or allow the troll and trailing lure to go completely dead in the water and sink for a few feet before continuing to troll. Another way to bring a strike from a following fish is to double your trolling speed for several feet, and then quickly slow down. You will receive most hits after the lure has been quickly and erratically moved and is just beginning to slow down.

Another thing to consider if strikes are few and far between is to go to a lighter, longer leader between troll and lure. A six-pound premium-quality monofilament line of small diameter, such as Trilene XL or XT, will be more difficult for finicky trout to see. At the same time it has high knot strength and very high tensile strength in relation to its diameter.

Two accessories that will greatly enhance your success when trolling are the Luhr-Speed trolling speed indicator and a quality depth finder. Many lures and attractors have optimum speeds which must be maintained to operate correctly. The Luhr-Speed is accurate to 1/10th of a knot, easily mounts on about any boat and assures getting proper lure action. A depth finder such as those made by Lowrance will allow you to locate schools of fish and help get your lure where it will catch them.

LUHR-JENSEN/LES DAVIS® LAKE TROLLS

* WILLOW LEAF FLEX-I-TROLL®: 4-blade models from 23" to 30" long.
* BEAR VALLEY: 4 blades, 26" long.
* FORD FENDER®: 2- to 6-blade models from 7" to 60" long.
* Kokanee Troll: 4-blade model shown
* also:
* BABY GANG: 4 blades, 22" long.
* BEAR VALLEY: 4 blades, 26" long.
* BEER CAN: 2- and 4-blade models from 15" to 30" long.
* BOLO® FLEX-I-TROLL®: 2-blades, 15" to 16-1/2" long.
* COWBELL® FLEX-I-TROLL®: 2-, 4- and 5-blade models from 26" to 45" long.
* CRAWLER HAULER: 2 blades, 24" long.
* DAVE DAVIS®: 2- to 7-blade models from 12" to 60" long.
* DOC SHELTON: 4- and 5-blade models from 15" to 36" long.
* FLUTED BEAUTY LAKER TAKER: 2- and 4-blade models.
* FORD FENDER®: 2- to 6-blade models from 7" to 60" long.
* JACK-O-DIAMONDS® FLEX-I-TROLL®: 2- and 5-blade models, 22" and 42" long.
* JEWELED BEAD KOKANEE TROLL: 4 easy-pulling Willow Leaf blades.
* LITTLE LAKE: 2 blades, 12" long.
* MAIN TRAIN: 4- and 5-blade models from 26" to 45" long.
* MIDGET FLEX-I-TROLL®: 4 blades, 27" long.
* SCHOOL-O-MINNOWS: 4- and 5-blade models, 16" to 32" long.
* SLIM JIM FLEX-I-TROLL®: 2 blades, 24" long.
* 6-PACK SCHOOLIE®: 6 whirling, minnow-type blades.
* TINY FLEX-I-TROLL®: 4 blades, 27" long.

smokinflies
01-03-2009, 06:26 PM
Hope this helps too:

Downrigging Techniques

A downrigger is the most effective way to control the depth of baits. Downriggers let anglers fish their lures from just below the surface all the way down to depths of 250 feet, or even more if necessary. More importantly, downriggers allow anglers more versatility when using flashers with their lures. Here are two methods if using flashers while downrigging.

Method 1: Flasher on the Main Line

Most anglers use a flasher that is tied directly to the main fishing line, just in front of a lure. In this configuration, the flasher will work in two ways: by imparting extra action to a lure, as well as attracting predators to the lure.

Tie a mainline of 20-pound test or more breaking strength (30-pound test is best all-round) directly to the swivel at the front (narrow end) of the flasher. Use an improved clinch knot, a Berkley knot, or a Palomar knot (if using one of the new "superlines") to attach the mainline to the flasher.

Attach a lure to the other end of the flasher using a leader of between 25- and 40-pound test. The length of the leader will depend upon two things: the targeted species, and the kind of lure you’ve chosen. Leaders of higher breaking strengths will add additional "snap" or "flick" to a lure when the flasher moves from side to side, or occasionally reverses its rotation.

Use a longer leader for natural baits like herring or anchovy, for high-action spoons (like the Gibbs Gator or Gypsy), or for wriggling lures (like the Gibbs Hockey Stick). These lures don’t need the flashers to provide as much additional action, so use leader lengths between 42 and 72 inches, with a starting length of 60 inches for Chinook, and 48 inches for Coho.

Hootchies that mimic prey like squid or octopus have no action of their own. Short, stiff leaders between 12 and 48 inches in length will allow the flasher to transmit more action to the hoochie. For Coho, start with 30-pound test leaders, 36 inches long. For Chinook, try 42-inch leaders. Short 12- to 27-inch leaders are adequate for sockeye and pink salmon.

Pull off enough line from the reel to let the flasher and lure run 15 to 30 feet astern of the boat. Attach the mainline to a downrigger release clip on the downrigger cable, and lower the downrigger weight just enough to get the flasher submerged. Check that the trolling speed is sufficient to cause the flasher to rotate, and that the action is correct for the lure. After adjusting the speed, lower the weight so the lure runs at the desired depth.

Note: The downrigger cable should make an angle of about 60° to the water at slower trolling speeds, and up to 45° to the water at the highest trolling speed. Changes in the speed of a lure can occasionally provoke a strike - every now and then try to vary the speed of your boat so the cable angle varies between the two extremes. Troll in a lazy zig-zag pattern once in a while to speed up the lures on one side of the boat while slowing those on the other.

Note: While it’s best to use a ruler to measure the leader length from the lure to the flasher, a full-sized #1 flasher is about one foot in length. Tie a lure to a spool of leader material, then holding the lure at one end of the flasher, wrap the leader material lengthwise around the flasher. Each wrap of line will be just under 2 feet.

Note: Cut off the length of main line between the downrigger release clip and the flasher after each fishing trip - it could be weakened from twisting by the rotation of the flasher.

Method 2: Flasher on the Downrigger Cable

Anglers who want the attraction of a flasher, but are using lures that shouldn’t be used directly behind a flasher (large herring, big plugs, or longer wiggling lures) should use this method. It’s also good for any lure that has its own action, if you want to play a fish without the added drag of a flasher on your line. This method is not for fishing with bare hootchies, as they need the flasher to give action. Tie your lure directly to the mainline.

Use 10 feet of very stiff 100-pound test monofilament, and tie stainless steel ball bearing swivels with quick-release heavy-duty snaps at each end. Attach a #1 or #3 Highliner flasher to one end of the line, and attach the other end directly to the eye on the downrigger weight.

Lower the weight 10 feet into the water. Let out your main line until the lure or bait is 15 to 50 feet behind the boat. Now slip the mainline into a downrigger release clip attached to a "stacker" cable clamp (which allows the release clip to be located anywhere on the downrigger cable), then attach the clip to the downrigger cable using this clamp so that it is 10 feet above the flasher. Lower the downrigger weight until your lure is at the desired depth.



Here are a few basics to help you get started with downrigging. The most common lure for Stripers are bucktail jigs (such as our Bucktailz, Bucktail Shadz, and Bucktail Spinz) with curly tail trailers, however, plugs and live bait also work. Trolling speed will typically vary between 1.8 and 4 mph. Pick the area that you want to start trolling and drop the boat speed to the speed you wish to troll. Let out line from the reel (40-150 feet depending on depth and water clarity), with the reel out of gear and the clicker on, place the rod in the rod holder and attach the line to the release. If you are also using a stacker (allows more than one rod per rigger), drop the downrigger ball 5-10 feet and set up the second rod. Drop the ball to the depth that you want to troll. After the ball is down, put the reel in gear and take up all slack line. Your rod should be doubled over (like you are fighting a fish) when enough line is taken up. The release will not trigger correctly if there is too much slack in the line. Keep in mind that when you are using stackers, the deeper rod should be on the outside (i.e., furthest from the boat) and the shallow rod on the inside (i.e., closest to the boat). If a fish hits the shallow line, you will have to bring it over the deep line at some point. If the deep rod is on the outside, this is much easier. Done the other way will result in more tangled lines.

A couple of factors that you want to keep in mind; as you increase the boat speed or length of cable out, the cannonball will rise some (called fall back) so that the depth shown on the depth meter is not the actual depth of your lure. For example, if the cable is at a 45 degree angle, you can find the actual depth by multiplying the depth shown by 0.7 to determine the actual depth. Also, depending on what lure you are using and the length of line out, your lure will also sink a few feet. At 2 mph, with 20 pound line, 1/2 oz jig will sink appoximately 10 below the ball with 90 feet of line out. Treat the depth of the ball as water surface for calculating the actual depth. If you are using plugs, use shallow runners as it is easier to determine depth. In some cases, your fish finder will mark the downrigger ball. If so, the ball will appear as a solid line on the fish finder.

Stripers and Hybrids usually hit hard enough to trigger the release; however, short fish will not always trigger the release. In these cases, you may notice your downrigger cable swinging somewhat or dragging further back. The rod may also bounce. You will have to reel up the downrigger to check the line and release the trigger yourself. If the fish releases the trigger, the rod will fly up. Grab the rod and take up the slack line as quickly as possible. The deeper you fish, the more slack line and the greater the chance of losing the fish. You do not need to set the hook. If you feel the need to set the hook, wait until you feel the full weight of the fish first. If the fish does not trigger the release, reel up the downrigger while keeping tension on the rod and trigger the release yourself.

You should always be moving while using the downriggers. When fighting a larger fish, you may need to decrease boat speed, but do not stop. Hanging up a downrigger on the bottom or snagging several lines can take the fun out of things. Also, most downriggers have some type of clutch or brake. Never tighten this the whole way. If you do hang up the ball, you want the cable to give some rather than causing damage to the boat or the rigger. After running the downriggers a couple of times, you'll get the hang of it. You should also try avoiding tight turns, especially if you have a lot of line out. If you turn too tight, lines will cross and things will get ugly. Make wide turns. You should also try to troll in a S-shaped pattern. This will cause the jigs to speed up and slow down, causes them not trail right behind the boat, and also allows you to cover a little more water. Good luck and tight lines!

karlow
01-03-2009, 10:26 PM
Lots of text there guys, but here is what you need to know.
The boat speed depends on what you are after.
For stripers, 2- 2.5 Knts. For trout we are talking old lady walking speed.
The slower the better. Most boats will not troll slow enough for trout with out dragging something. This time of year, for trout your best bet is to troll on the surface. that is unless we get a heat wave. You can troll mono, maybe 6 lb with needle fish, or CD3s. Try your luck at the vine. If you have a meter use it to determine the proper depth, and fish location. Your line should be about 100ft back, as will mine so do not run over my lines! You can add weight to your line to get it down. If the trout on your meter are all deeper than 15 ft, you should have brought the lead core.

Now go get them!

KP